Building a fence can seem like a daunting task, but with the right planning and materials, it can be a fun and rewarding DIY project. A sturdy, attractive fence can increase your home’s curb appeal, provide privacy, keep pets safely confined, and add value to your property. This comprehensive guide will walk you through all the steps involved in planning, preparing for, and constructing your own fence.
Planning Your Fence
Before you dig your first post hole, careful planning is key to building a fence that meets your needs. Consider the following factors as you plan out your project:
Determine the Purpose
- Privacy – Taller wooden fences or vinyl fences can create seclusion. Leave gaps between boards for airflow.
- Pet containment – Look for sturdy materials at least 5 feet tall. Bury fence to deter digging.
- Decorative – Shorter open fences like picket or rail fences add charm without blocking views.
- Noise reduction – Solid, sturdy materials like concrete block help muffle sound. Staggered boards can also diffract noise.
Choose a Fence Style
Popular options include:
- Picket fences – Spaced 1-3 inches apart, these elegant fences let air and light through while maintaining privacy and framework. They range from 2-4 feet tall.
- Split rail fences – Rustic and laidback, these open wooden fences use vertical posts connected by horizontal rails. They are 2-5 feet tall.
- Chain link fences – Durable steel wire woven into diamond shapes creates a cost-effective barrier. Available in heights up to 6 feet.
- Wrought iron fences – Decorative and strong, with posts, rails, and ornate metalwork. From 3-6 feet tall.
- Vinyl fences – Offer privacy with little maintenance. Many styles 4-6 feet tall mimic wood but won’t rot or need painting.
- Concrete block walls – Create substantial boundaries with these solid, sturdy walls, from 2-6 feet tall.Smooth, decorative blocks are available.
Choose Materials
- Wood – Natural-looking, with many design options. Requires regular maintenance. Cedar and redwood are naturally rot-resistant.
- Vinyl – Won’t rot, warp, or need painting. Withstands weather well. Many styles and colors.
- Chain link – Very durable and cost-effective but less attractive looking. Galvanized or vinyl-coated resist rust.
- Wrought iron – Decorative metal is very strong but higher cost. Steel or aluminum are cheaper alternatives.
- Concrete block – Get a solid, permanent feel. DecorativeBLOCK offers color,texture choices. Higher DIY difficulty.
- Composite lumber – Comprised of wood fibers and plastic or resin,this material resists moisture, rotting, and pests.
Choose a Height
Fence height depends on your purpose:
- Privacy fences are typically 6 feet tall.
- Pet containment fences should be 5 feet or taller.
- Decorative fences can be 2 to 4 feet tall.
- Pool code fences are a minimum of 4 feet high.
Check your local regulations – many areas restrict front yard fences to 3 or 4 feet high.
Check Local Building Codes
Most areas have laws governing:
- Maximum fence height allowed.
- Setback distance from property lines.
- Finished side facing outwards.
- Permits required for construction.
Knowing the requirements in advance prevents having to modify your design later!
Measure Your Property
- Mark your property lines clearly before planning fence placement.
- Consider gates, access needs, and existing structures.
- Measure to buy enough materials: total length x height.
- Account for uneven ground when estimating.
Design Your Fence
- Decide on post spacing, from 6 to 8 feet for most fences.
- Allow for bracing at corners and changes in direction.
- Include gates where needed, at least 36 inches wide.
- Sketch your plans to visualize layout, post placement, and gates.
Preparing to Build a Fence
Proper preparation is crucial for building a lasting, well-constructed fence.
Purchase Materials
Use your measurements and design to calculate needs. You’ll need:
- Fence boards, panels, or rolls of chain link
- Posts – quantity depends on spacing, height, and design
- Post caps
- Gravel or concrete to set posts
- Fasteners: galvanized nails, screws, bolts, etc.
- Tools – post hole digger, shovel, tamper, level, drill, etc.
- Decorative accessories like finials, if desired
Allow 10-15% extra materials for mistakes and gate fabrication.
Call Before You Dig!
Always call 811 or check online a few days before digging to locate buried utility lines on your property. Accidentally hitting a gas line or electric while digging post holes can be disastrous!
They’ll mark underground lines at no cost.
Install Post Bases
- Mark post hole spots with stakes or spray paint.
- Dig holes 12″-18″ diameter and 2′-3′ deep, spaced according to plan.
- Fill bottom 4-6″ of each hole with gravel for drainage, tamp down.
- Set the first post base in concrete or gravel to anchor it. This establishes your fence line. Level and brace it in position while concrete hardens.
Trim Vegetation
Clear bushes, tree branches, roots along your fence line. This allows easier access for digging and working and ensures vegetation won’t later grow to displace your new fence.
Building a Wooden Privacy Fence
Now that preparations are complete, it’s time for the fun part – constructing your fence! Here are the basic steps for building a traditional wood privacy fence:
Set the Posts
Use a post-hole digger tool to excavate a hole at each planned post location along your fence line. Holes should be:
- At least 2-3 feet deep
- Around 12 inches wide
- Aligned according to your string line
Insert the wooden post into each hole:
- Place the first post against the string/guideline.
- Fill the bottom 4-6″ of hole with gravel.
- Set the post atop the gravel and hold plumb.
- Pour concrete around the post and gravel.
- Tamp concrete down with a rod or stick to eliminate air pockets.
- Level and brace the post while concrete sets, a minimum of 24 hours.
- Continue setting each new post before moving down the fence line.
Tip: Mark post tops to indicate which side faces out for consistent alignment.
Install Rails and Pickets
Once posts have set, attach horizontal rails:
- Place 2×4 or larger rails along the inside face of posts to mount pickets to later.
- Screw, nail, or bolt rails into posts, allowing a 1″ maximum overhang on each end.
- Ensure rails are level to each post using a 4′ level.
Then attach fence pickets:
- Nail, screw, or bolt pickets to each rail, spacing evenly to desired privacy gap.
- Place a nail in the top corner of each picket first. Check for plumb and level alignment of all pickets as you work across the rails.
- Finally, add a nail at the midpoint and bottom of each picket.
Allow for Expanding Wood
As temperature and humidity change, wood will shrink and expand. Allow for this:
- Don’t nail pickets too tightly to rails.
- Use screws or bolts so they can slide slightly as wood moves.
- Leave a small gap between each end of rail boards and posts.
Not allowing for expansion can warp boards and push fences out of alignment.
Add Decorative Touches
Personalize your fence for added beauty:
- Use decorative post caps to adorn fence posts.
- Install finials or metalwork for a hint of style.
- Add lattice along the bottom inside edge for interest.
Maintaining a Wooden Fence
Regular maintenance is key to getting the most enjoyment and longevity from your new fence.
Initial Sealing or Stain
- Allow wood to weather 2-3 months before sealing or staining. This helps prevent early cracks, warping, or cupping.
- Use a high-quality sealer/stain and apply according to product directions.
- Coat all sides of each picket, rail, and post for full protection.
Routine Inspection
- Inspect your fence twice yearly for problem spots. Look for cracked or split boards, loose nails or screws, leaning posts, etc.
- Address issues right away to prevent further deterioration.
Resealing and Repairs
- Expect to reseal or restain your fence every 2-4 years depending on climate.
- Sand and prep wood prior to reapplying finish.
- Replace any broken, warped, or rotten pickets or rails promptly to restore privacy andappearance.
Wash Periodically
- Use a pressure washer on low settings to remove dirty and mold from fence boards every few years. This prolongs the life of your stain or sealer.
- Allow wood to dry fully before resealing, at least 48 hours.
Proper maintenance makes your fence last for many years to come!
Installing a Chain Link Fence
Chain link fences offer affordable containment and privacy with minimal maintenance required. Follow these steps to install a chain link fence in your yard:
Set End, Corner and Gate Posts
- Dig holes 12″-18″ in diameter and 36″ deep.
- Fill bottom with gravel, set post, and fill remainder with concrete to within 6″ of top.
- Insert a reinforcement bar into center of each post, then brace firmly while drying.
Install Top and Bottom Rails
The top and bottom rails give the fence structure:
- Once posts have hardened, attach rails along the end,corner and gate posts using rail ends and brace bands.
- Rest one end of rail in a rail end fitting.
- Use a brace band on the post to support the other end.
Set Line Posts
Line posts spaced 6-10 feet apart connect to the rails:
- Dig line post holes 8-12″ across and 24″ deep with gravel bases.
- Hammer line posts into holes until tops are 1-2″ above ground.
- Slide rail ends over each line post to connect them.
Hang Chain Link Fabric
Unroll the mesh and attach it to the framework:
- Unroll mesh to cover from one end post to the next on one long side.
- Pull mesh taut and attach tightly to rails and posts with wire ties.
- Repeat along the lengths until the area is covered.
Install Top Channel Bar
The tension bar tightens the mesh along the top edge:
- Run bar along the length of the fence just under the top rail.
- Use stretching pliers at one end to pull mesh taut.
- Attach bar to each post with fitted tension bands.
Attach Decorative Slats or Privacy Panels (Optional)
For a more finished look, add these touches:
- Insert alternating vertical slats into each diamond of chain link.
- Use zip ties to secure top and bottom of slats to mesh.
- Or, affix metal, vinyl, or wood privacy panels to the chain link using panel clips.
That completes a chain link fence installation! Simple, durable, and maintenance free.
Building a Concrete Block Wall Fence
Concrete block walls make an incredibly strong, permanent boundary or enclosure. Follow these guidelines for your wall installation:
Plan the Dimensions
- Total length based on property lines.
- Overall height for your needs – privacy, containment, etc.
- Thickness of at least 6 inches for shorter walls, 8-12 inches for taller ones.
- Post spacing every 10-12 feet.
Mark the Layout
- Use stakes and mason’s string to map out the wall placement.
- Run string lines along both the inner and outer face so blocks align correctly during stacking.
Dig Trenches for the Footing
- Dig a trench 12-18 inches wide along the length.
- Depth is around 12 inches or below frost line.
- Lay down a gravel base for drainage – 4-6 inches deep after tamping down.
Pour Concrete Footings
- Footings support the weight of the wall and prevent settling.
- Form the footing with wood planks to proper width and depth.
- Fill with concrete and allow to fully cure before stacking blocks, about 24-48 hours minimum.
Lay the First Course of Block
- Place blocks end-to-end atop footing, checking string lines for alignment.
- Level blocks carefully. Use construction adhesive between blocks.
- Fill hollow cores with concrete and steel rebar every few feet for reinforcement.
Stack Additional Block Courses
- Ensure each row is level and aligned with guide strings.
- Alternate the seams between blocks for stability.
- Fill every few vertical cores in each row with concrete and rebar.
- Drive rebar into perimeter of footing and lapping adjacent rebar helps tie wall together.
Cap the Wall Top
- Glue and mortar a solid row of cap blocks along the top edges.
- Premade concrete caps are available for a tidy finished edge.
With careful planning and construction, you’ll have a sturdy, straight block wall fence or enclosure that can last decades!
Tips for Building a Quality Fence
Follow this checklist of top tips for planning, installing, and caring for your new fence:
- Research local regulations on fence height, location, and other codes to ensure compliance.
- Measure carefully and purchase 10-15% extra materials to allow for mistakes, waste, and gate construction.
-Call 811 before digging to avoid hitting underground utilities. Wait at least 2 business days.
-Use sturdy materials like cedar, redwood, or vinyl that resist rot, decay, and insects.
-Allow space between fence boards or pickets for airflow and wood expansion/contraction.
-Set posts in concrete or packed gravel, burying 1/3 of post depth or below frost line.
-Gates should be at least 36 inches wide to allow easy access with tools, mowers, wheelbarrows, etc.
-Level and align each section as you go, using guide strings and marking posts.
-Brace corner and gate posts firmly with temporary supports until concrete cures.
-Allow wood to weather 2-3 months before applying protective sealer, stain, or paint.
-Inspect your fence periodically and address maintenance needs like washing, sealing, repairs promptly.
-Provide proper drainage along fences and gates to prevent puddles and erosion.
-Trim back encroaching tree branches and roots regularly to prevent displacing fence.
-Check with your homeowner’s insurance – some offer discounts for fenced pools, trampolines, etc.
Following these best practices for planning, building, and maintaining your fence helps ensure you’ll enjoy it for years to come!
Frequently Asked Questions About Fence Building
What type of wood is best for fencing?
Cedar and redwood are naturally rot-resistant options perfect for fencing. For a less expensive alternative, pressure-treated pine withstands weather well. Avoid untreated, non-resistant woods.
How far apart should fence posts be spaced?
Space most fence posts 6 to 8 feet apart. Closer spacing adds stability, while wider spacing saves on materials. Brace corners and gate posts for extra strength.
Should fence posts be buried?
Yes, burying about 1/3 of the total post length helps anchor it firmly. Set post 2-3 feet deep, well below frost line. Surrounding with concrete provides maximum stability.
How long does concrete take to set around fence posts?
Allow concrete at least 24 hours of cure time before attaching rails or pickets. Longer is better – 48 to 72 hours is ideal for maximum strength before applying force.
What is the easiest fence style for DIY installation?
For DIY-friendly fencing, chain link is relatively simple, using pre-woven mesh and posts. Pre-assembled panel systems are also easier than building from scratch.
How do I repair warped boards on a wooden fence?
Replace extremely warped or cracked boards as soon as possible to restore your fence’s integrity. Use screws or bolts rather than nails to allow natural wood movement without splitting.
What is the most private fencing option?
Solid wood fences over 6 feet tall offer the most privacy and seclusion. Alternating overlapping boards creates a more complete barrier while still allowing airflow.
How long should a residential fence last?
With proper installation and maintenance, most wooden fences last 10-15 years. Vinyl, iron, and concrete last 15-25 years or longer. Keep wood sealed, repair issues promptly, and regularly inspect.
Conclusion
Building your own fence can be an extremely gratifying project! Follow the planning, preparation, and construction process detailed in this guide to maximize your success creating a fence customized to your needs. Proper materials, site prepping, and installation techniques will result in an attractive, sturdy boundary that provides security, enhances curb appeal, and adds value to your property for years to come. Remember to check local codes, call before digging, allow wood to weather before sealing, and provide routine maintenance. With the right information and careful work, you can enjoy the benefits and pride that come with building your own quality fence!