How to Finish Drywall for DIYers

Finishing drywall is one of the most important steps in any drywall installation project. A proper drywall finish helps hide imperfections, makes painted walls look smooth, and gives your home a professionally finished look. While finishing drywall may seem intimidating for DIYers, it can be done with the right materials and techniques. This comprehensive guide will walk you through all the steps needed for a high-quality DIY drywall finish.

Gearing Up for Drywall Finishing

Before you start finishing drywall, make sure to gather all the necessary materials and tools:

Joint compound – Also called mud, joint compound comes in pre-mixed tubs or powder bags you mix with water. For finishing drywall seams, all-purpose compound is fine. For embedding tape, use setting-type compound.
Joint tape – Self-adhesive fiberglass mesh tape is the easiest for DIYers to use. Paper tape is trickier to embed properly.
Finishing knives and trowels – You’ll need knives of various sizes, 4-12 inches, as well as a 14-16 inch trowel for embedding tape. A hard rubber drywall sander is also helpful.
Sandpaper – 120 and 220 grit paper for smoothing between coats. You’ll also need a sanding sponge and pole sander.
Drywall screws and screw gun – These are necessary for reattaching loose drywall edges or damaged areas.
Utility knife and drywall saw – For trimming and scoring the drywall. A keyhole saw is also handy.
Other supplies – Get a mixing paddle, drywall pan, and plastic putty knives to avoid ruining your good finishing tools. Also have a bucket, rags, painter’s tape, and a work light.

Prepping Drywall for Finishing

Before applying any joint compound or tape, you need to make sure the drywall surface is properly prepared:

Inspect all drywall seams, corners, and screw/nail heads. Use a utility knife to cut away any high spots or protrusions.
Lightly sand any bumps, ridges, or loose paper around seams and screws. The surface should be smooth.
Use drywall screws to re-secure any areas where the drywall edges are loose or lifting up. Make sure seams stay tight.
Wipe off dust with a damp rag. Primer and paint won’t stick well to a dusty surface.
Apply painter’s tape to the edges for a cleaner finish. Remove it before priming.
Fill any large gouges or holes with fast-setting drywall compound and let fully cure overnight before finishing seams.

Once the drywall surface is cleaned up and secured, you’re ready to start applying joint compound and tape.

Applying Joint Compound and Tape

Embedding joint tape under compound is key for smooth, crack-free seams between drywall sheets:

Inside Corners

Use a 4-6 inch knife to apply a thin layer of setting-type compound to both sides of the inside corner seam.
Center the joint tape over the seam and use the knife to smooth it in place, pressing firmly to embed it.
Apply a second coat of compound over the tape, extending it about 3 inches wide on each side, and let dry overnight.

Outside Corners

For outside corners, apply thin coats of compound to both sides of the corner.
Fold the joint tape and press it firmly into the corner to embed it. Smooth away excess compound.
Feather out a second coat 2-3 inches on each side of the corner once dry.

Drywall Seams

Apply a thin layer of setting compound about 3 inches wide over the seam with a 4-6 inch knife.
Embed the tape into the seam, then smooth it out firmly with the knife. Remove excess compound.
Once dry, apply a second wider coat, feathering it about 5-6 inches on each side of the seam. Let dry overnight.

The key with taping is pressing the tape firmly to embed it into the compound, while also removing excess compound. Drywall knives and trowels are the perfect tools for this delicate balancing act for DIYers.

Applying Joint Compound to Screws and Nails

Any drywall screws or nails that were used to secure sheets will also need light coats of joint compound for a seamless finish:

Lightly apply a thin layer of compound over each screw/nail and spread it about 2 inches wide using a 4-inch putty knife.
Let dry fully, then lightly scrape or sand any high spots or ridges flush with the drywall surface.
Apply a second, wider coat of compound, about 3-4 inches around the screw/nail, and feather the edges. Let dry overnight.
A third, final coat may be needed for large countersunk screw holes. Build up thin layers gradually.

Take it slow when coating drywall fasteners – you want the compound to be smooth and flush with the wall surface when finished. Avoid the temptation to apply thick coats all at once.

Sanding Between Coats

It’s crucial to let joint compound fully dry between coats. Once dry, taking time to sand will eliminate high spots, ridges, or uneven areas:

Use 120 grit paper wrapped around a hand sanding block to sand dried compound. Work in a circular motion.
Sand any ridges or high areas down flush with the drywall surface. Be thorough but careful not to scuff the paper.
Use a drywall sanding pole and 220 grit paper to smooth corners, seams, and ceilings. Move the pole in long strokes parallel to joints.
Do not oversand too aggressively. This can damage the drywall paper or tear the joint tape.
Wipe away all dust before applying the next coat. A thorough sanding helps each coat go on smooth.

Letting compound cure fully and taking your time sanding makes the finishing process much easier. The goal is smooth seams, not removing large amounts of material.

Skim Coating Over the Entire Surface

After finishing all the seams, screws, and problem spots, a thin final skim coat helps hide any imperfections and improves the look of the finished drywall:

Prep Work

Fill any dings, air bubbles, or damaged areas with compound before skim coating the entire surface.
Wipe the walls down with a damp rag to remove dust. Let fully dry before skim coating.
Use painter’s tape to mask off adjacent surfaces like trimwork, windows, and outlets.

Applying the Skim Coat

Use a 14-16 inch drywall trowel to skim a thin, even layer of joint compound over the entire surface, about 1/16 inch thick.
Keep a wet edge and work systematically in 4×4 foot sections from top to bottom of each wall. Smooth the compound as you go.
Only skim as much area as you can reach to avoid lap marks where separate sections meet.
Let the skim coat dry fully, then sand smooth any ridges, high spots, or imperfections with 150 grit paper before priming.

Take your time with the final skim coat and make sure the layer is evenly thin across the entire surface. The goal is to create one uniformly smooth, finished wall surface.

Avoiding Common Drywall Finishing Problems

Learning to identify and prevent common drywall finishing problems can help DIYers achieve professional-looking results:

Cracks or bubbles in compound – Caused by applying coats before previous layers have fully dried. Allow adequate drying time between applications.
Blisters/bubbles under tape – Usually from insufficient compound under the tape. Make sure to fully embed tape into an even layer.
Ridges or lap marks – Sand thoroughly between coats and maintain a wet edge when applying compound.
Excess “crowning” – Don’t apply skim coats and finish layers too thick. Thin, even layers are best.
Unsanded rough areas – Always sand thoroughly between coats for a smooth finish.
Scuffed drywall paper – Overly aggressive sanding can damage the paper facing. Use proper grit sandpaper and limited pressure.
Peeling paint or blisters – Can result from skim coating over dusty walls or insufficient drying time before priming.

With the right materials, proper technique, and careful sanding, DIYers can achieve seamless, professional-looking drywall finishes. Avoiding common mistakes will also make your finishing work look as polished as a seasoned drywall pro.

Tools and Techniques for Inside Corners

Inside corners where two drywall sheets meet present one of the trickiest challenges for DIY drywall finishing. The right tools and techniques make finishing inside corners much easier:

An inside corner trowel has a V-shaped end that perfectly matches up with the angle of the corner. This makes applying compound smooth and efficient.
A corner roller can also quickly apply an even coat of compound into the inside corner. Roll it over the seam like a small paint roller.
After taping the corner, run a corner bead roller over it to ensure the tape is fully embedded and any air pockets or bubbles are smoothed out.
For a super smooth finish, use a corner flusher tool to press the feathered edges of the corner compound flat and create a crisp, beveled edge.
To finish corners by hand, fold a drywall knife lengthwise and use the thin straightedge to feather out the compound and create a sharp angle.

Finishing inside corners neatly and professionally takes practice. Having the right specialized corner tools helps simplify the process for DIYers learning the fundamentals.

Finishing Drywall Corners with No Tape

For non-taped “California corners” or drywall edges finished without joint tape, the process requires extra care and attention:

Carefully coat both sides of the corner seam using a 4-6 inch putty knife. Make the layers smooth and even.
Apply 3 very thin coats rather than 2 thicker coats. Thin applications are less likely to shrink or crack.
Let each coat dry fully overnight before applying the next layer. Don’t skimp on drying time.
Sand the corner edge lightly with fine 220 grit paper between coats for the smoothest finish.
On the final coat, feather the edges out wider by 6-8 inches on each side of the corner.
Finish off with a low-profile inside corner trim for the most seamless look if needed.

No-tape corners are prone to cracking, so go slowly with multiple thin coats and allow ample drying time between applications. Sanding well and feathering out the edges helps minimize visible seams.

Finishing Drywall Nail Pops and Blowouts

It’s common in both new and old drywall to see popped nails and blown out screw holes that create unsightly bumps and craters in the surface:

For minor pops, drive the protruding nail back into the drywall using a nail punch. Apply 3 thin coats of compound to cover.
With deeper pops or blowouts, drive a drywall screw 2 inches above or below to re-secure that spot on the wall before filling.
Dig out any loose material from blowouts before filling to create a better surface for the compound to adhere.
Apply a setting-type compound to fill gaps around larger pops and blowouts for better durability.
Let each thin coat dry fully before applying the next and sand smooth. Feather and blend edges into wall.

Don’tpound large pops or blowouts fully flush in one coat. Filling gradually in layers with proper drying time reduces chances of more cracking and damage later on.

Dealing with Damaged Drywall Paper

If drywall paper facing gets torn, gouged, or bubbled up from water damage, repairs are needed before finishing:

Carefully cut away any severely loose paper or bubbles with a utility knife. Remove loose material.
Sand the edges of torn paper with 120 grit sandpaper so they’re beveled smooth with the wall surface.
Apply a coat of drywall sealer or PVA primer to seal raw gypsum and secure loose paper. Let fully dry.
Spot fill areas with regular joint compound using thin coats applied with a 4-6 inch putty knife.
Once dry, apply wider coats to feather and blend patch into surrounding surface. Sand between coats.
For large damaged areas, cut out and replace the sheet section following standard drywall repair techniques before finishing.

Sealing and spot filling localized paper damage well creates a solid base to apply finish coats and prevent further tearing during sanding.

Smoothing Out Drywall Texture Differences

Variations in drywall texture due to repairs or finishing at different times can hamper a uniform look:

Inspect walls for texture differences under lighting at an angle. Mark any inconsistencies.
For patches or repairs, match surrounding texture using drywall mud and specific texture tools or brushes.
Heavily stipple any smooth areas with joint compound and a texture brush to approximate a knockdown look.
For mixed textures, skim coat entire wall with a thin layer to create one consistent lightly textured surface.
Consider covering inconsistent textures with new drywall or 1⁄4” smoother panels fastened over the top of the wall if needed.

Take the time to identify texture differences and deal with them early so your finished paint job looks cohesive. Matching or creating texture takes finesse.

Priming Your Finished Drywall

Once all drywall finishing steps are complete, proper priming is crucial before painting for a durable surface:

Allow joint compound and skim coat to dry fully for at least 24 hours before priming.
Use a high-quality drywall primer designed for new drywall and masonry surfaces. Avoid cheap economy brands.
Apply primer generously to seal the surface. For best results, consider two coats of primer allowing proper dry time between them.
Inspect walls and spot prime any uncoated areas you may have missed before final paint coats.
Tinting the primer close to your final paint color allows it to mask any imperfections better.
Read all primer labels and follow instructions carefully for best adhesion and durability.

Rushing the priming and painting stages can lead to poor adhesion or blistering paint down the road. Investing in quality primer leads to better long term results.

Achieving a Smooth Paint Finish

Painting over properly finished and primed drywall gives your wall surfaces a polished professional look:

Apply two finish coats of quality interior latex paint in your preferred sheen – eggshell and satin are good choices.
Use a 1/2 or 3/4 inch nap roller for the cut-in edges and overall painting. This creates a lightly textured surface.
Maintain a wet edge and work methodically so fresh paint blends into painted areas before drying.
For ceilings or areas with critical lighting, consider a spray application for the smoothest possible surface.
Sand lightly between coats with 220 grit paper to remove any dust nibs or imperfections from underlying layers.
Don’t spot paint repairs or flaws between coats. Fully apply finish coats 1 and 2 over the entire primed surface.

With careful prep work and finishing, painted drywall can look pristine. Proper cutting in along edges makes trim and ceilings look crisp.

Troubleshooting Common Drywall Paint Issues

No matter how careful your prep work, occasional painting problems may arise on finished drywall:

Peeling paint – Caused by inadequate priming, painting over glossy surfaces, or applying finish coats before primer/compound has fully cured.

Bubbles/blisters – Usually due to painting over unremoved dust, contamination, or moisture in the wall surface.

Flashing/sheen variations – From uneven primer absorption, differences in surface porosity, or applying finish paint too thinly.

Brush/roller marks – Typically happens when finishing coats go on too thickly or dry too fast before evening out.

Shadowing/staining – Dark spots that show through paint due to variances in drywall porosity or material.

Picture framing – Edge outlines where repaired/skimmed areas absorb paint differently than existing surfaces.

While frustrating, most paint flaws can be remedied with thorough cleaning, sanding, spot priming, and reapplication of finish coats. Identifying and addressing the source cause is key to preventing issues.

Achieving Flawless Drywall Finishes

With the right preparation, tools, and techniques, even novice DIYers can achieve seamless, professional-looking drywall finishes:

Properly prepare surfaces – Address needed repairs, remove debris/dust, secure joints and seams.
Embed tape under compound in all joints and corners to minimize cracking. Allow thorough drying time between applications.
Sand consistently between coats for smooth, uniform finishes.
Finish fasteners, corners, and problem spots first before whole-wall skim coating.
Apply thin, even skim coats over entire surface to hide imperfections. Feather out edges.
Prime generously before painting using quality drywall primer and paint.
Address potential paint problems proactively through careful prep work and application.

With a methodical approach and patience allowing adequate drying and curing time, you can master DIY drywall finishing like a pro. The completed look will be well worth the effort.

Frequently Asked Questions About Finishing Drywall

Below are answers to some of the most common questions DIYers have about achieving a flawless drywall finish:

How many coats of joint compound are needed when finishing drywall?

For most seams and corners, a minimum of two to three coats are ideal – a thin embed coat followed by one or two wider coats feathered out from the center. Additional coats may be needed for large repairs or deep holes.

Should joint compound be completely dry between coats?

Yes, compound should be completely dry all the way through before adding another layer. Drying overnight is ideal, especially for thicker applications. Applying coats