Grass is a common plant that thrives in many lawns and gardens. While grass can provide a lush, green landscape, it can also quickly spread and become invasive. If you want to get rid of grass in your yard or garden beds, there are several effective methods you can use. The best approach will depend on the extent of the grass growth and your preferences.

Identifying the Type of Grass

The first step is identifying what type of grass you are trying to remove. There are two main categories of grass:

Cool-Season Grasses

These grasses thrive in cooler climates and include:

Ryegrass
Fescues
Kentucky Bluegrass
Bentgrass

Cool-season grasses are green in spring and fall but go dormant and turn brown in summer.

Warm-Season Grasses

These grasses prefer hot, humid climates and include:

Zoysia
Bermuda
St. Augustine
Centipede

Warm-season grasses are green in summer but go dormant and turn tan or brown in winter.

Knowing the type of grass will help determine the most effective removal methods. Warm-season grasses tend to be more difficult to control than cool-season grasses.

Removing Grass Manually

For small areas, manually removing grass may be the best option. Here are some manual removal techniques:

Hand Pulling

Grasp clumps of grass at the base near the soil and pull firmly. Try to remove as much of the root system as possible. This works best when the soil is damp but not soaked.

Pros: No chemicals required. Good for small patches.

Cons: Very labor intensive. Grass can regrow from any remaining roots.

Digging

Use a spade, shovel or garden hoe to dig up the grass. Try to dig at least 2-3 inches deep to get the entire root system.

Pros: More effective at removing the entire grass plant and root.

Cons: Causes major soil disruption. Labor intensive.

Smothering

Cover the grass with a thick layer of newspaper, cardboard, burlap sacks or other heavy material. Leave it in place for 1-2 months until all growth is suppressed.

Pros: No digging required. Environmentally friendly.

Cons: Can look unsightly. Takes a long time.

Removing Grass with Herbicides

For larger areas, using an herbicide is usually the most effective approach. There are two main types of herbicide that work on grass:

Non-Selective Systemic Herbicide

Non-selective herbicides like glyphosate (Roundup) will kill all types of plants and grass. Use this for lawn replacement projects.

Pros: Very effective on all grass types.

Cons: Harsh chemical. Kills all plants, not just grass.

Selective Grass Herbicide

Selective herbicides like fluazifop (Fusilade II) or sethoxydim (Segment II) only kill grasses. Use this to remove grass from flower beds.

Pros: Specifically targets grasses. Less risk to non-grass plants.

Cons: Usually doesn’t kill grass entirely. May require repeat applications.

When using any herbicide:

Carefully follow label directions.
Spray on a calm day to avoid drift.
Avoid contacting desired plants.
Repeat as needed until grass is dead.

It can take 1-4 weeks for the grass to completely die after herbicide application. Avoid digging or disturbing the area during this time.

Solarizing the Soil

Solarization uses the sun’s heat to kill grass, weeds and weed seeds in the top few inches of soil. It is an eco-friendly option.

To solarize:

Mow the grass very short.
Water the area thoroughly.
Cover it with clear plastic sheeting, sealing the edges with soil or rocks.
Leave the plastic in place for 4-6 weeks during hot, sunny weather.

The heat and lack of sunlight should kill most grass. However, regrowth is likely so this works best before planting desirable vegetation.

Blocking Sunlight

Without sufficient sunlight, grass and weeds cannot perform photosynthesis and will eventually die. Methods to block sunlight include:

Covering the area with several layers of thick, overlapped newspaper or cardboard. Wetting the layers first can help them adhere. Leave in place for at least one growing season.
Laying down landscape fabric over the grass. Overlap the edges by 6-12 inches and secure with stakes or edging material. The grass should die within 1-2 growing seasons.
Mulching heavily with a natural material like wood chips, shredded leaves or straw to a depth of at least 3 inches. This must stay in place for 1-2 years to fully kill grass.

These approaches suppress regrowth of grass but may not fully eliminate it. Ongoing maintenance is required.

Professional Sod Removal

For very large lawns, consider hiring a professional landscaping company to remove the sod using a sod cutter machine. A sod cutter will remove strips of grass and the top 2-3 inches of soil. This is the quickest way to eliminate established grass over a large area.

After sod removal:

Rake up and dispose of strips of sod.
Till the underlying soil.
Level and rake smooth.
Water thoroughly.
Allow 1-2 weeks for any grass regrowth to emerge before planting or seeding the area. Spot treat any regrowth with an herbicide.

This aggressive removal method provides the cleanest slate for lawn renovations.

Tips for Ensuring Grass Does Not Regrow

No matter the removal method, be patient. Most grasses take 1-4 weeks to fully die after treatment.
For the most effective control, combine methods – for example, cutting back growth, applying herbicide, and then covering with mulch.
After grass removal, quickly establish new plants, sod or seed to prevent weeds and grass from recolonizing the bare soil.
Monitor the area for the next 6-12 months. Promptly dig out or spot treat any grass regrowth.

With persistence and the right techniques for your situation, you can successfully rid your property of unwanted grass for good.

When to Remove Grass

The timing of grass removal can help determine success. Here are the optimal times to tackle this project:

Spring or Early Summer

Warm-season grasses are greening up and actively growing. Herbicides and manual removal will be most effective.
Cool-season grasses are still growing enough to absorb herbicides.
Higher rainfall supports faster decomposition of layers like cardboard and mulch that smother grass.
Warm weather accelerates the soil solarization process.

Fall

Cool-season grasses are actively growing and can be more readily weakened.
Warm-season grasses are slowing down, so have less energy to resist removal.
The grass shouldn’t grow back as quickly with cooler temperatures and less daylight.
It’s a good time to plant trees, shrubs and root plants that will outcompete any grass regrowth.

Avoid trying to kill grass in winter when cool-season varieties are dormant. The grass is not actively growing so it will resist die-off.

Methods to Remove Different Grass Types

The most effective grass removal strategies depend on which grass variety you are trying to eliminate.

Removing Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass is a fast-spreading warm-season grass that can quickly invade flower and garden beds. Methods to remove it include:

Apply glyphosate repeatedly throughout the growing season. Be diligent as it takes 4-6 weeks to fully kill Bermuda grass.
Use fluazifop-p-butyl (Fusilade II), a selective grass killer, for areas near non-grass plants. Reapply every 2 weeks as needed.
Dig out small patches, removing all roots and rhizomes. Bermuda spreads by above and underground stems.
Solarize in summer to bake the grass. Pair with mulch or cardboard to smother regrowth.

Removing Crabgrass

Crabgrass is a tough annual warm-season grass. Techniques to eliminate it include:

Pull crabgrass by hand in early summer when the soil is moist and the plants are small.
Use quinclorac (Drive XLR8) which selectively targets crabgrass. Apply in spring and early summer.
Overseed lawns with perennial ryegrass in fall – thick turf crowds out crabgrass seedlings.
Aerate the lawn in spring or fall to encourage deeper root growth in desired grass that can outcompete crabgrass.

Removing Zoysia Grass

Zoysia is a very dense, choking warm-season grass. To remove:

Apply glyphosate in early summer, repeating every 3 weeks until fully dead. Avoid rotary mowing which can spread zoysia.
Hire a sod cutter company to remove zoysia mats and expose the soil. This avoids unsightly dead grass.
Dig out small clumps, ensuring you remove the thick rhizomes. Zoysia is tough to hand pull.
Cover with cardboard or landscape fabric for 1-2 years until dead. Zoysia stores energy in its rhizomes so persistence is key.

Removing St. Augustine Grass

St. Augustine is a fast-growing warm-season grass. For removal:

Apply glyphosate during active growth in summer. It may take 4-6 weeks for complete die-off.
Use sethoxydim (Segment II) to target St. Augustine in flower beds – avoid glyphosate which will harm broadleaf plants.
In spring and fall, cover St. Augustine with overlapping layers of newspaper to smother the grass.
Carefully dig out small patches. St. Augustine has thick, white creeping rhizomes with a tenacious grip.

Natural Methods to Kill Grass

For those wishing to avoid chemical herbicides, there are some more natural options to kill grass:

Boiling Water

Boiling water is very effective on small patches and weeds.

Boil water until vigorously bubbling.
Carefully pour over the grass you want to kill.
Use protective clothing to avoid scalding from splashing water.
The grass will turn brown and wilt. Reapply weekly as needed.

Boiling water works best on young annual weeds. It may take several treatments to fully kill established perennial grass.

White Vinegar

Concentrated white vinegar can be used as an organic alternative to commercial herbicides.

Use horticultural vinegar which is 20% acetic acid for best results. Grocery store vinegar is usually only 5%.
Spray or paint undiluted white vinegar directly on grass leaves when sunny.
Vinegar kills the foliage but may take several re-applications to kill the roots.

Vinegar works best on young, tender grass. Avoid contact with desired plants as it can burn leaves.

Corn Gluten Meal

This organic byproduct prevents grass seeds from germinating when used as a pre-emergent.

Apply corn gluten meal at a rate of 20 pounds per 1000 square feet.
Time applications for early spring and fall when grass is growing.
It can take 2-3 years of use to fully kill grass. Reapply every 6-8 weeks.

Corn gluten meal prevents new grass growth but does not kill established grass plants. Use in combination with manual removal or smothering materials.

Flame Weeding

A flame weeder or propane torch can be used to scorch and kill grass and weeds.

Use a sweeping motion and keep the flame about an inch from the grass to avoid fire risk.
Time applications for dry conditions when grass is not soaked.
Repeat applications are needed as this only kills the foliage, not the roots.

Flame weeding is not safe for large areas. Use extreme caution to avoid burns or unintended fires.

Preparing the Area After Grass Removal

Once you have killed and removed the grass, there are a few important steps before planting or seeding the area:

Remove Dead Grass and Roots

Eliminate all dead grass debris, pulled weeds and surface roots. This prevents regrowth.

Rake thoroughly.
Gently till the soil with a hoe or cultivator to expose remaining roots.
Dispose of plant debris – do not compost any roots or stolons which may re-sprout.

Level and Smooth the Soil

Use a garden rake to smooth out the area after digging, tilling or sod removal.
Level low spots and fill holes with quality topsoil.
Compact the soil lightly with a lawn roller or tamper.

This creates an even surface for seeding, sodding or planting.

Wait 2-4 Weeks

Allow time for any remaining grass roots to re-sprout.

Water frequently to encourage growth.
Pull any new seedlings or treat regrowth with an herbicide.

Waiting avoids having new grass invade planting holes or emerge in seedbeds.

With the grass gone and soil prepared, you can move ahead with projects like planting a garden bed, laying sod or reseeding a lawn area. Stay vigilant for grass regrowth and stay on top of it immediately to protect your investment. With diligence and patience, you can eliminate grass for good.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the easiest way to get rid of grass?

For small areas, manual removal by hand pulling or digging is the quickest and easiest method. For larger spaces, using a non-selective systemic herbicide like glyphosate (Roundup) is the most foolproof approach since it will kill any type of grass.

Does vinegar really kill grass?

Yes, vinegar can be effective at killing grass. However, for best results you need high concentrations of vinegar, at least 10% acetic acid, along with repeated applications. Horticultural vinegar with 20% acetic acid provides better grass control than typical 5% grocery store vinegar.

What can I spray on grass to permanently kill it?

Non-selective systemic herbicides containing glyphosate (such as Roundup or KleenUp) are the most effective spray-on products for permanently killing grass. Glyphosate is a post-emergent herbicide that is absorbed by the grass leaves and moves throughout the plant, including the roots. For total grass elimination, be prepared to make repeat glyphosate applications over 1-2 growing seasons.

What kills grass permanently?

The only way to permanently kill grass is to remove the entire root system so it cannot regrow. This can be achieved via sod removal, digging out clumps, or using systemic herbicides like glyphosate that kills the roots. No matter the method, patience is key as it can take weeks or months for grass to fully die off after treatment. Monitoring for and promptly removing any regrowth is critical for permanent control.

What kills Bermuda grass naturally?

Bermuda grass is very hard to kill without herbicide use. Natural methods that provide partial control include solarizing (baking the grass under plastic sheeting), frequently applying boiling water, or heavily mulching the area with leaves, wood chips or other natural materials to block sunlight. However, these methods must be repeated consistently to have a chance at fully killing stubborn Bermuda grass. Preventing regrowth is key.

Does bleach kill grass?

Bleach can damage and discolor grass leaves but it does not kill the roots so it is ineffective at providing long-term grass control. The sodium hypochlorite in bleach is non-selective and can kill or harm nearby plants and soil microorganisms. Bleach is also quickly diluted and deactivated by water and soils so it has very brief residual effects. For killing grass roots, systemic herbicides or complete sod removal are more reliable approaches.

What is the fastest way to kill a lawn?

The quickest and most effective way to kill an entire existing lawn is using a non-selective systemic herbicide containing glyphosate (Roundup). Use a broadcast spreader or sprayer to evenly coat the grass leaves with glyphosate. Within 2-4 weeks the grass should be browned and dead. For the fastest removal, you can then rent a sod cutter to strip away the dead grass and surface soil. Reapply glyphosate as needed to any regrowth before re-planting.

Can I put new sod over existing grass?

It is not recommended to lay new sod directly over existing grass. The living grass below will continue growing up through the sod, resulting in a lumpy, uneven lawn. For best sod installation results, remove the old grass completely using a sod cutter, herbicide, or by smothering with mulch. Killing the original grass prevents it from invading the new sod.

Conclusion

Completely removing unwanted grass takes time and diligence. Avoid shortcuts and be prepared to use multiple removal methods for the best control, especially when dealing with invasive grass varieties like Bermuda. Test different techniques on small patches first to determine what works best for your specific grass type and situation. With regular monitoring and prompt treatment of regrowth, you can eliminate grass in your garden or lawn for good. The extra effort upfront will pay off with the ability to successfully grow landscape plants, flowers, vegetables or sod grass of your choosing.

How to Get Rid of Grass