Carpetgrass is a warm-season lawn grass that thrives in the hot, humid climates of the southern United States. Though often considered a weed grass, carpetgrass serves an important purpose in lawns and yards throughout its growing region. With its dense, carpet-like mat of thick blades, carpetgrass prevents soil erosion on slopes and provides a durable, low maintenance turf option.
Learning how to properly grow and care for carpetgrass will ensure your lawn remains healthy, green, and resilient through the dog days of summer. Follow this guide to master carpetgrass lawn care and cultivation.
What is Carpetgrass?
Carpetgrass (Axonopus spp.) is a creeping perennial grass native to tropical and subtropical regions. The name comes from its dense, mat-like growth habit that forms a lush “carpet” across the ground.
There are several carpetgrass species, with the most common being Axonopus affinis and Axonopus compressus. Both are adapted to warm, humid climates in USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10 across the Southeast and Gulf Coast states.
Some key traits of carpetgrass include:
- Coarse, light green leaf blades that grow to 4-8 inches tall
- Dense, spreading growth covers ground like a carpet
- Shallow roots that don’t require deep soil
- Tolerates a range of soil textures and acidity
- Withstands heavy foot traffic
- Grows best during hot, humid weather
While often considered a weed grass, carpetgrass has merits as a lawn and utility turf. Its tolerance of poor soils, drought, and traffic makes it a choice for low maintenance areas.
Growing Conditions for Carpetgrass
Successful carpetgrass growth relies on mimicking its native environment with the following conditions:
Climate: Hot and humid weather with daytime highs of 80-95°F is optimal. Carpetgrass thrives during the long, hot summers of the South. It goes dormant and turns brown after first frost.
Sun: Full sun is best, but carpetgrass tolerates partial shade. Avoid dense shade under trees where growth will be thin.
Soil: Carpetgrass adapts to a range of soil textures from sandy loam to heavy clay. Ideal pH is 5.0-6.5. Drainage should be good, but carpetgrass tolerates occasional wet soils or inundation.
Water: Supply 1-1.5 inches of water per week from rain or irrigation, more during droughts. Soil should stay uniformly moist but not waterlogged.
Fertilizer: Apply 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft every 6-8 weeks during active growth. Or use a complete fertilizer with micronutrients.
Mowing: Cut at 1-2 inches with sharp blades. Mow often, removing no more than 1/3 of blade height per cutting.
Traffic: Carpetgrass holds up well to foot traffic and activity due to its dense growth and stoloniferous habit.
How to Plant Carpetgrass Seed or Sod
Carpetgrass is propagated through seed, sod, or plugs. Seed and sod establish quicker for full lawn coverage. Plugs are used to patch or fill in sparse areas.
Here are tips for planting carpetgrass:
Seed: Sow at rate of 1-2 lbs per 1,000 sq ft. Rake seed into soil lightly and keep moist until germination in 14-21 days. Mow once seedlings reach 3-4 inches tall.
Sod: Lay pieces in a staggered brickwork pattern. Tamp or roll to secure sod-soil contact. Water daily for 2-3 weeks until sod takes root.
Plugs: Cut 3-4 inch squares of sod from an existing lawn. Space 12-18 inches apart and press into soil. Water daily until plugs spread and fill in.
Timing: Spring and summer are best times for planting carpetgrass. Avoid fall planting after August.
Soil prep: Remove debris, loosen top 2 inches of soil. Level any low spots. Apply starter fertilizer per soil test recommendations.
Weed prevention: Use pre-emergent herbicide prior to seeding or sodding to control summer annual weeds.
Caring for an Established Carpetgrass Lawn
Once established, carpetgrass needs proper maintenance to keep it full and vibrant during hot weather. Follow these care tips:
Mowing
- Mow weekly at height of 1-2 inches for optimal health. Never remove more than 1/3 blade height when cutting.
- Use sharp mower blades for clean cuts. Dull blades shred leaf tips, opening disease infection sites.
- Change mowing direction each time to prevent blades from leaning or matting.
- Leave clippings unless they clump for even fertilization as they decompose.
Watering
- Supply 1-1.5 inches of water weekly, from irrigation or rainfall, to keep soil consistently moist but not saturated.
- Avoid frequent, light watering which leads to shallow roots. Deep, infrequent soaking is best practice.
- Increase water needs during peak summer heat, drought conditions, or salt buildup along coast.
Fertilization
- Fertilize every 6-8 weeks during active growth periods using 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft.
- Alternatively, apply a complete fertilizer with micronutrients at 3-4 lbs per 1,000 sq ft.
- Stop fertilizing after August to harden plants before dormancy. Resume in spring after green up.
Aeration
- Aerate annually in early summer by pulling 2-3 inch plugs across the lawn. This relieves soil compaction and allows air, water and nutrients to penetrate roots.
Dethatching
- Thatch buildup smothers roots and blocks air/water flow. Remove accumulation over 0.5 inches using a power rake.
- Dethatch in early summer. Avoid late summer dethatching which stresses plants before dormancy.
Pest Control
- Weeds like crabgrass and goosegrass compete with carpetgrass. Use pre-emergent herbicides to prevent warm season weeds. Hand pull escaped weeds.
- Chinch bugs damage grass during hot, dry weather. Watch for yellowing lawn patches and treat with insecticide if pests are found.
- Dollar spot fungus creates round, dry spots. Improve air flow and fertilize to recover. Severe cases may need fungicide.
Winterizing Carpetgrass Lawns
Carpetgrass naturally goes dormant and turns brown after first frost. To prep your lawn for winter:
- Mow final time after growth stops in late fall. Leave blades 1 inch tall.
- Remove fallen leaves, which smother grass over winter. Compost or shred leaves with mower.
- Repair dead spots now to allow new growth in spring. Rake back thatch and reseed.
- Apply pre-emergent herbicide in late fall to prevent winter annual weeds like henbit and chickweed.
- Fertilize with 0.5 lbs nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft in early November to strengthen roots before dormancy.
- Avoid excessive traffic on dormant grass. Muddy areas may need straw cover for protection.
- Prepare irrigation system for freezing weather if needed. Drain pipes, blow out lines, and shut off water.
Common Carpetgrass Problems
Even when properly maintained, issues can arise with carpetgrass lawns. Monitor for these common problems:
Thinning/Sparse Growth: Insufficient nitrogen, shade encroachment, compacted soil, thatch buildup, drought stress, or disease can lead to thin, patchy turf. Correct underlying issues to improve density.
Weeds: Crabgrass, goosegrass, dandelions, and other weeds compete for light, space, and nutrients. Maintain healthy grass and use pre-emergents to prevent invasion. Hand pull escaped weeds.
Leaf Spots/Melting Out: Fungal diseases cause small, sunken spots on blades that spread rapidly under wet conditions. Improve air flow and fertilize. Severe cases require fungicide application.
Chinch Bugs: Hot, dry weather brings small black insects that suck juices and cause yellow, dying grass patches. Confirm presence before treating lawns preventatively.
Compacted Soil: Heavy traffic and poor drainage cause soil compaction, preventing root development. Aerate annually. Top dress low spots with compost. Improve drainage.
Thatch Buildup: An excess layer of dead grass stems and roots accumulates. Dethatch using power rake. Prevent thatch with proper mowing, fertilization, and irrigation practices.
Alternative Uses for Carpetgrass
Beyond traditional lawn use, carpetgrass offers several other landscaping and agricultural applications including:
Erosion Control: The dense, spreading growth provides excellent erosion control on slopes, berms, waterways, and drainage ditches.
Low Maintenance Areas: Carpetgrass requires minimal mowing, irrigation, and fertilization after established, making it ideal for outlying areas.
Rough Turf: Withstands heavy foot traffic around parks, golf courses, athletic fields, and other high use areas.
Pasture Grass: Provides modest forage for livestock such as cattle, horses, and sheep. Often mixed with other grasses and legumes.
Ground Cover: Grown as a natural alternative to mulch in ornamental plantings, gardens, and bare areas.
Origins of Carpetgrass in the Americas
The origins of carpetgrass help explain why it thrives in southern lawns today. Native to tropical and subtropical regions worldwide, carpetgrass likely arrived in the Americas by several routes over time.
Prehistoric Introduction: Like other warm season grasses, carpetgrass may have migrated naturally across the Bering land bridge during a warmer climatic period. Native Americans likely dispersed seeds as they traveled southward through North America.
Trans-Atlantic Shipping: Carpetgrass seeds were possibly transported between Africa, the West Indies, and Americas during the trans-Atlantic slave trade of the 17th to 19th centuries. The grass grew as forage around slave quarters and later plantations.
Intentional Plantings: Around the early 20th century, carpetgrass was likely introduced into the Southeast USA deliberately by farmers and researchers as a pasture grass. Its usefulness as a lawn grass was later promoted by seed companies.
Adaptation and Spread: Once present in the Americas, carpetgrass proved highly adaptable. Its dense, spreading growth allows it to naturalize readily and compete with native plants. Over time, it extended its range across warm Southern climates.
Today, carpetgrass remains a ubiquitous component of warm season lawns and grasslands throughout the Gulf Coast and Southeastern United States.
Tips for Improving Carpetgrass Lawns
While carpetgrass provides a durable, low maintenance turf option, its coarse texture and light green color leaves something to be desired. Here are tips for improving carpetgrass lawn quality:
Overseed: Introducing more desirable grasses like bermudagrass or zoysia enhances color, texture, and density. Overseed in spring after green up.
Fertilize Judiciously: Applying too much nitrogen leads to succulent growth prone to disease and wear. Follow recommended feeding schedules.
Mow Regularly: Frequent mowing improves carpetgrass density. Remove no more than 1/3 of blade height per cutting for healthiest plants.
Aerate Annually: Relieve compacted soil to enhance root development, water infiltration and oxygen for better growth.
Control Weeds: Spot treat problem weeds or use pre-emergent herbicides to reduce competition and thinning of grass plants.
Adjust Soil pH: Test soil and apply lime if needed to reach slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5 optimal for carpetgrass.
Improve Drainage: Ensure any excess water drains properly to avoid moisture loving weeds and root rot diseases.
Reduce Shade: Prune back encroaching trees and shrubs to maintain full sunlight ideal for carpetgrass.
Dethatch: Remove excess thatch layer to prevent matting, improve air and water flow, and reduce pest and disease pressure.
Frequently Asked Questions About Carpetgrass
Growing a beautiful carpetgrass lawn requires knowing how to properly care for this unique warm season grass. Here are answers to some common carpetgrass questions:
Is carpetgrass a good lawn grass?
Carpetgrass makes an excellent low maintenance lawn grass for warm climates. It tolerates heat, drought, foot traffic, and poor soil while providing a dense, weed-resistant turf. The coarse texture and light color are downsides for some homeowners.
What is the best height to cut carpetgrass?
Cut carpetgrass at 1-2 inch height for optimal lawn health. Never remove more than 1/3 of the blade when mowing. Keep mower blades sharp to prevent shredding leaf tips.
When should I fertilize carpetgrass?
Apply 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft every 6-8 weeks during active growth in spring through early fall. Fertilize in early November before dormancy and again after spring green-up.
How do I get rid of weeds in carpetgrass?
Apply pre-emergent herbicide in spring and fall to prevent summer and winter weeds. Hand pull escaped weeds. Maintain healthy, dense grass to outcompete invaders. Overseed with finer bladed grasses.
What causes yellow spots in carpetgrass?
Chinch bugs often damage carpetgrass during hot, dry weather. Confirm their presence before treating. Yellow spots can also be caused by dog urine, disease, poor drainage or nutritional deficiencies.
Should I dethatch my carpetgrass lawn?
Dethatch in early summer if thatch layer exceeds 0.5 inches. Thatch buildup prevents water and nutrients from reaching soil and roots. Use a power rake and remove debris.
When does carpetgrass turn brown?
Carpetgrass naturally goes dormant and turns brown after first frost in fall. It may also brown off during drought. Resume watering and fertilizing after spring green-up for recovery.
Should I aerate my carpetgrass lawn?
Annual core aeration in early summer relieves soil compaction and improves root development, nutrient intake and oxygen for healthier grass plants.
How do I repair bare spots in carpetgrass?
Rake back dead grass and thatch, loosen soil and level the area. Apply seed or sod, tamping to ensure good contact. Keep moist until established. Alternatively, use plugs for small patches.
Conclusion
When properly planted and cared for, carpetgrass provides an attractive, low maintenance lawn option for Southern gardens. Its ability to tolerate heat, drought, traffic, and poor soils makes it ideal for difficult areas. A little extra attention to mowing, fertilization, and weed control can coax carpetgrass into a lush, dense turf. Learning the keys to carpetgrass cultivation will ensure your lawn survives and thrives through the extreme conditions of a Southern summer.