How to Install Architectural Shingles

Architectural shingles, also known as laminated or dimensional shingles, can greatly enhance the look and curb appeal of your home. With their multi-layer construction and shadow lines, architectural shingles have a distinctive, textured appearance that makes roofs look richer and more beautiful. Installing architectural shingles takes more skill and time than installing basic 3-tab shingles, but it’s a manageable project for an ambitious DIYer. Here’s a step-by-step guide to installing architectural shingles to help you achieve a professional-looking roof.

Gather Materials and Tools

Installing architectural shingles requires some specialty roofing tools and materials. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Architectural shingles – These come in bundles with coverage sizes ranging from 20-25 square feet per bundle. Make sure to get enough bundles to cover your entire roof.
  • Roofing felt – #30 felt is typical for use with architectural shingles. You’ll need one roll for each layer.
  • Galvanized roofing nails – You’ll need 1-1/4″ to 1-3/4″ nails for installing the shingles depending on your roof pitch.
  • Hammer – Use a sturdy hammer designed for roofing.
  • Chalk line – For aligning shingle courses.
  • Utility knife – For cutting shingles.
  • Tin snips – For trimming shingles around vents, etc.
  • Ladder – Use a properly secured extension ladder to access the roof.
  • Roofing cement – For sealing any nails and shingles edges.
  • Ridge vent – Provides ideal ventilation for architectural shingles.
  • Metal drip edge – Installs along eaves and rakes before shingling.
  • Underlayment – Use a synthetic underlayment for best weather protection.

Make sure you have enough of all materials on hand before starting the project. Proper prep work is also essential for a successful architectural shingle installation.

Prepare the Roof

Installing architectural shingles over existing shingles is not recommended. For best results, start by stripping the roof down to the sheathing and removing all old roofing materials. Here are some tips for preparing the roof:

  • Inspect the roof sheathing and repair any damaged or rotten boards.
  • Cover the roof deck with plywood sheathing if needed – at least 1/2″ exterior grade.
  • Install metal drip edge along the eaves and rakes.
  • Place gutter aprons to protect shingles overhanging the gutters.
  • Cover the roof deck with synthetic underlayment, overlapping courses by at least 6″.
  • Install flashing around protrusions like chimneys and vents.
  • Apply peel-and-stick membrane 6″ up and out from any valleys.

Prepping the roof properly lays the foundation for the architectural shingles and helps prevent leaks.

Install Drip Edge and Underlayment

Once the roof deck is prepped, the next step is installing drip edge and underlayment:

  • Run metal drip edge along the eaves and rake edges on top of the roof decking.
  • Overlap pieces by 2-4″ and use roofing nails every 12″ to attach.
  • Install synthetic underlayment across the entire roof, overlapping horizontal and vertical seams by at least 6″.
  • If needed, cut the underlayment around protrusions and vents. Avoid stepping directly on the underlayment.

The drip edge helps divert water away from fascia and rakes while the underlayment adds a weather-resistant barrier.

Snap Chalk Lines for Starter Shingles

To ensure your first row of shingles is straight, snap chalk lines to guide the installation:

  • Measure down from the roof edge based on your shingle exposure. For example, 5-5/8″ for a 5″ exposure.
  • Snap a horizontal line between rakes along the eaves to mark shingle placement.
  • Snap vertical lines from eaves up every 24″ to align shingle courses.
  • Use the lines as a guide to install starter shingles along the eaves.

Having properly spaced chalk lines is key for an organized, professional shingle layout.

Install Starter Shingles

Starter shingles help anchor the first course of architectural shingles. Here are some tips:

  • Use starter strips cut from architectural shingle bundles. Cut off the excess.
  • Align the starter shingle’s top edge with your chalk line.
  • Attach with roofing nails about 1″ from edges, spaced roughly 8-12″ apart.
  • Overlap joined starter shingles by at least 4″ and cement the seams.
  • Extend starters 1/4″ – 3/4″ over drip edges at eaves and rakes.

Proper starter shingle installation ensures the first course is straight and not easily lifted by wind.

Install First Row of Shingles

With starters complete, it’s time to install the first row of field shingles:

  • Open shingle bundles and gently bend to loosen them and prevent cracking.
  • Start first shingle flush with rake edge, overhanging eaves by 1/4″ – 3/4″.
  • Align bottom edge with your starter strip and chalk line.
  • Attach with 4-6 roofing nails placed per the packaging instructions.
  • Overlap seams by at least 4″ and cement for waterproofing.
  • Continue first row along eaves, trimming final shingle to fit.
  • Use the vertical chalk lines to check for straightness.

Take your time installing the first row properly, as this anchors the entire shingle system.

Install Second Row and Remaining Courses

After finishing the starter row, continue installing courses working toward the roof peak:

  • Use the exposure guides on shingles to ensure proper overlap. Most are 5″-6″ exposure.
  • Offset seams by at least 4″ from the course below for best water protection.
  • Align shingles with the vertical and horizontal chalk lines for an organized layout.
  • Install 4-6 nails per shingle as shown in the packaging instructions.
  • Seal down all nail heads and shingle edges with roofing cement.
  • On final course, trim shingles to fit along the ridge. Leave a vented gap for airflow.
  • Finish edges with cut shingle pieces and roofing cement.
  • Install ridge vent along the roof peak if desired.

Stay organized, work methodically across and up the roof, and inspect courses regularly for straightness.

Install Shingles Around Protrusions

One tricky part of shingle installation is properly sealing and flashing around protrusions:

  • Cut shingles to fit around pipes, vents, etc. leaving a 1/4″ gap for caulk. Avoid small pieces.
  • Lift flange edges and slide shingles underneath, sealing edges with roofing cement.
  • Apply flexible flashing around protrusions over flanges and shingles.
  • Seal down flashing edges and shingles thoroughly with roofing cement.
  • Use pre-cut shingle-flashing pieces whenever possible for easier installation.

Taking extra care to properly flash protrusions will help prevent leaks and water damage.

Follow Safety Best Practices

Working on a roof can be hazardous, so follow these safety best practices:

  • Use fall protection – wear a harness and tie off to anchors when possible.
  • Cover roof vents and openings to avoid falling debris.
  • Place ladders on secure, level footing.
  • Never work on wet, windy days which increase slipping and falling risks.
  • Watch your footing and wear shoes with good traction. Don’t hurry.
  • Stay hydrated and take regular breaks to avoid exhaustion.
  • Install temporary walkboards on steep slopes for safe footing.
  • Get help carrying heavy bundles of shingles up ladders.

Following safety protocols is essential to avoid injuries from falls or heavy materials.

Perform a Final Inspection

Before calling the architectural shingle installation complete, conduct a thorough final inspection:

  • Check that all shingles are flush, evenly aligned, and securely nailed down.
  • Look for any cracked, misaligned, or missing shingles and make repairs.
  • Verify all exposed nail heads are sealed with roofing cement.
  • Inspect shingle seams for proper overlap and cement application.
  • Make sure areas around vents and protrusions are properly flashed and sealed.
  • Scan for any debris left on the roof and remove it.
  • Check eave overhangs for proper drip edge installation and no exposed nails.

Taking time for a final inspection ensures your roof doesn’t have any deficiencies or leak risks from the start.

Tips for Long-Lasting Architectural Shingles

Here are some extra tips to help your new architectural shingle roof last for years:

  • Keep trees and overhanging branches trimmed to prevent damage from falling limbs.
  • Clean the roof annually using a soft-bristled broom or low-pressure hose.
  • Avoid walking on the roof unnecessarily to prevent broken or displaced shingles.
  • Inspect the roof seasonally and make minor repairs as soon as any issues are spotted.
  • Remove leaves, pine needles and other debris regularly to improve drainage and prevent water pooling.
  • Have roof and attic vents checked to be sure they aren’t obstructed, blocked or improperly installed.
  • Consider hiring a professional roofer for annual inspections and tune-ups after 10-15 years.

Proper care and maintenance will help maximize the longevity and performance of architectural shingles.

FAQs

Here are some frequently asked questions about installing architectural shingles:

Should I install architectural shingles over existing shingles?

It’s not recommended to install architectural shingles over an existing roof. The uneven shingle layers can cause some shingles to crack or deform. It’s best to remove old shingles down to the roof deck first.

How much do architectural shingles cost compared to 3-tabs?

Architectural shingles typically cost about 2-3 times more than basic 3-tab shingles. However, their added durability and visual appeal make them a worthwhile investment for many homeowners. Expect to pay $80-150 per square.

What’s the difference between hip and ridge caps?

Hip caps cover hip ridges which form at joints between roof planes. Ridge caps run horizontally along the roof’s peak. Caps are made to match architectural shingles but serve different areas.

Should I use roofing nails or staples to install architectural shingles?

Roofing nails provide a more secure hold and are recommended for architectural shingles. Staples are more prone to backing out or failing to properly secure shingles in windy conditions.

How long do architectural shingles typically last?

The lifespan of architectural shingles is 30-50 years for most quality brands. Proper installation and care are key to achieving longevity at the upper end of this range. Harsh climates or inadequate ventilation can shorten shingle life.

Conclusion

Installing architectural shingles is a worthwhile project for homeowners who want to enhance their home’s beauty and potentially boost its resale value. With proper preparation and by following best practices for installation, you can achieve professional-looking results. Architectural shingles require an initial investment and more labor during installation compared to basic 3-tabs. However, the upgraded aesthetics and durability make it a sound investment for most homes. Just be sure to leave yourself plenty of time and follow safety precautions when tackling this roofing project.

How to Install Architectural Shingles

Introduction

Architectural shingles, also known as dimensional or laminated shingles, are a popular roofing choice for many homeowners. Unlike basic 3-tab shingles, architectural shingles have a three-dimensional profile and come in a wide range of attractive styles and colors. The multi-layer construction also makes them more durable, wind-resistant, and weatherproof than traditional shingles. However, installing architectural shingles is more complex than 3-tabs and requires some specialized techniques and roofing knowledge. This guide will walk you through the complete installation process, from proper planning and prep work to final inspections and cleanup. With the right materials, adequate safety precautions, and careful adherence to best practices, you can achieve beautiful, professional-looking results.

Gather Necessary Materials

Installing architectural shingles requires collecting these essential materials before starting:

  • Architectural shingle bundles – Confirm you have enough by calculating your roof’s square footage and required shingles per square.
  • Roofing felt or synthetic underlayment – This provides a protective base layer over the roof deck.
  • Galvanized roofing nails – 1-1/4″ to 1-3/4″ nails are needed based on roof pitch.
  • Hand-drive shingle hammer or pneumatic roofing nailer.
  • Utility knife and tin snips – For cutting shingles around protrusions.
  • Chalk line – To guide straight shingle courses.
  • Ladder or roof jacks – For safe roof access.
  • Fall protection – Harness, ropes, anchors to prevent falls.
  • Roofing cement – For sealing shingles and nails.
  • Ridge vent – Improves attic ventilation.
  • Drip edge flashing – Protects shingle edges along eaves.
  • Pipe boots, roof vents, and other flashing materials.

Acquire all necessary materials beforehand so you don’t get stuck mid-project without an important item. Having proper safety equipment like ladders, anchors, ropes and harnesses could also be a lifesaver.

Prep the Roof Deck

Thoroughly preparing the roof deck lays a solid foundation for architectural shingles:

  • Tear off old roofing down to bare decking whenever possible.
  • Replace any damaged or soft deck boards.
  • Install 1/2″ exterior plywood over plank decking if needed.
  • Attach metal drip edge along eaves and rakes.
  • Cover deck with synthetic underlayment, overlapping rows by 6″.
  • Install any needed flashing around vents, pipes, valleys, etc.
  • Carefully follow all underlayment manufacturer instructions.

Proper prep prevents leaks, provides a smooth deck for shingling, and enhances weather protection. Don’t shortcut this important first step.

Snap Chalk Lines for Alignment

Chalk lines guide straight, even shingle courses and proper alignment:

  • Mark a line up from eaves based on the shingle exposure, such as 7″ for a 5″ exposure.
  • Snap horizontal lines across the roof at regular intervals, like every 24″.
  • Use the lines to align starter shingles along the eaves.
  • Refer to the lines when installing each shingle course to keep them evenly spaced.

Straight courses enhance the finished appearance and prevent wavy, uneven lines. Chalk lines take extra time but are worth the effort.

Install Metal Drip Edge

Metal drip edge belongs along eaves and rakes before shingling:

  • Attach drip edge over underlayment with roofing nails every 12″.
  • Overlap pieces by 2-4″ with seams atop rafters.
  • Extend drip edge 1/4″- 3/4″ past roof decking edge.
  • Wrap up facia boards by 1″ to divert water into gutters.
  • Cut drip edge with tin snips or aviation snips where needed.

Proper drip edge installation protects shingle edges from water damage. Don’t let it become an afterthought.

Attach Starter Shingles

Starter shingles provide the first base layer of architectural shingles:

  • Use an actual shingle with tops cut off or specialty starter strips.
  • Align with chalk line and overhang drip edge slightly.
  • Attach with nails 1″ from edges every 8″- 12″ along each starter.
  • Overlap seams by at least 4″ and embed in roofing cement.
  • Extend starters 1/4″- 3/4″ over rake edge drip flashing.
  • Keep nails properly above the sealant line.

Properly installing starter shingles ensures the first course is straight, secure, and sealed.

Install First Shingle Course

Carefully install the first course of field shingles:

  • Start first shingle flush with rake drip edge.
  • Align bottom edge evenly along chalk line.
  • Fasten with roofing nails per packaging instructions.
  • Overlap seams by at least 4″ and embed in roofing cement.
  • Trimm final shingle to fit, leaving proper overhang space.
  • Confirm course is straight using vertical chalk lines.

The first shingle course sets the tone for the rest of the roof. Take your time to ensure proper installation.

Continue Installing Courses

Repeat the process up the roof one course at a time:

  • Use shingle exposure guides to ensure proper overlaps.
  • Offset seams in each row by at least 4″ from the course below.
  • Align each shingle evenly along horizontal and vertical chalk lines.
  • Drive nails properly above sealant strips as specified.
  • Seal down all nail heads with dabs of roofing cement.
  • On the final course, trim shingles to fit the ridge gap.

Stay organized and work methodically to ensure straight, even, properly sealed courses.

Install Shingles Around Protrusions

Special care is needed when shingling around vents, pipes and other roof protrusions:

  • Carefully cut shingles to fit snugly around the protrusion.
  • Slide shingles up under flanges whenever possible.
  • Seal shingle edges thoroughly with roofing cement.
  • Use pre-cut shingle-flashing combos correctly matched to shingle profile.
  • Apply flexible flashing over the fl

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