Making a wooden box is a fun and rewarding woodworking project that allows you to create a functional item with your own two hands. With just a few basic tools and materials, you can make a wooden box in practically any size you need – from small jewelry boxes to larger storage chests. The techniques are simple enough for beginners, but allow for endless customization so you can make your wooden box truly unique.
Selecting the Wood
The first step is choosing what type of wood you want to use. Here are some of the most common options:
- Pine – Pine is affordable, widely available, and easy to work with. It has a soft texture that’s ideal for staining and painting. Pine is susceptible to dents and scratches, so it may not be the best choice for heirloom boxes.
- Oak – For a sturdier box, oak is a classic choice. Red oak is porous and takes stain well. White oak has a less porous texture but is still strong. Oak can be more expensive than pine but makes a durable box.
- Cedar – Valued for its pleasant aroma and natural resistance to decay, cedar crafts lightweight boxes that make great gifts. The wood is soft and prone to dents though.
- Maple – Hard maple creates a smooth, durable box. Its closed grain doesn’t absorb stain well, so maple is often painted. The wood is dense and cuts cleanly.
- Cherry – Prized for its rich color and smooth texture, cherry polishes to a beautiful luster. It’s a preferred wood for high-end boxes and furniture. Cherry is durable but costs more than other domestic woods.
Select boards that are straight and free of knots, cracks, and warping. Start with quarter-sawn lumber around 5/8 to 3/4 inches thick for medium and large boxes. Thinner stock around 1/4 to 1/2 inches can be used for small boxes and inlays.
Planning the Size and Design
Once you choose the wood, it’s time to plan the dimensions and style of the box. Consider the purpose of the box and what needs to fit inside. For example:
- Jewelry boxes are generally petite, around 5 x 7 inches or smaller. Include compartments, ring bars, and mirrors.
- Keepsake boxes can be somewhat larger, such as 8 x 10 inches, with a lifting lid and velvet lining.
- Blanket chests and storage trunks need much bigger dimensions, like 2 x 3 feet. Include hinges, handles, and possibly a lock.
- Decorative boxes meant for display can be any size. Make sure to leave room for decorative elements like inlays or carved accents.
Sketch your design and list lumber dimensions. It’s smart to make the bottom slightly smaller than the top piece so the box sides angle outward. This makes removing the box from the form easier during assembly.
Allow for 1/8 to 1/4 inch wood thickness when planning the interior space. For large boxes, use thicker lumber or make the walls from overlapping boards for sturdiness. Hardwood plywood is another option for panels and can be edged with solid wood for aesthetics.
Cutting Pieces to Size
With your plan in place, it’s time to cut the wood. You’ll need:
- Table saw and/or circular saw
- Miter saw for cross cuts
- Jigsaw for curved shapes
- Router for decorative edges (optional)
Cut pieces slightly larger than the final dimensions to allow for smoothing later. Mark each piece according to its position – sides, ends, bottom, and lid.
Cut edging strips if using plywood panels. Run perimeter boards through the table saw to cut rabbets if you want an inset bottom or lid. Sand edges smooth after cutting.
Joinery Techniques
There are several options for assembling the box sides, such as:
Butt Joints
The simplest is gluing boards edge-to-edge with butt joints. This works well for thin material. Apply glue to the edges and clamp pieces together with pipe or bar clamps until the adhesive dries.
Dado Joints
Dadoes are grooves cut in the wood to insert another piece. Cut dadoes the thickness of the sides in the ends and bottom. Then glue and slide the side panels into the dadoes for strong corner joints.
Rabbet Joints
Rabbet joints involve cutting a lip into the back edge of the panel ends so the sides can set into them. Cut rabbets on the table saw or router. Glue and clamp the rabbet joints together.
Dovetail Joints
For the strongest joints, cut interlocking dovetails. Mark and cut tails in the box sides and cut the mating pins in the ends. Glue and tap dovetail joints together with a rubber mallet.
Screws and Nails
For quick joining, you can nail and/or screw the box together after cutting miters. Countersink holes and fill with wood putty for a cleaner look.
Adding the Base
The base can be created a few different ways:
- Attach a plywood bottom directly to dados or rabbets in the lower edges.
- Cut a groove in the box sides for a loose plywood panel to slide into. This allows wood movement.
- Construct a frame from slats with openings between them. Allow space for the bottom to expand and contract.
- Make feet or turn box upside down and attach pedestal feet to the lid for an elevated floor.
A loose-fit bottom may rattle, so consider adding thin foam strips for a tighter fit and to cushion contents. The bottom can also be recessed if desired.
Creating the Lid
The lid needs to fit snugly but move freely. Rabbet joints work well to recess the lid. Another option is to make the lid undersized and attach wood strips to the underside to fit into the box sides.
Hinged lids allow full access to the contents. Attach hinges to the box back and lid with screws. Add a clasp or latch to keep the lid closed. Lifting lids are removable and have an overhang along one side to get your fingers underneath.
Applying Trim and Hardware
Now you can add any decorative trim or hardware elements:
- Install metal hardware like hinges, latches, handles, or corner protectors.
- Attach wooden knobs, feet, or edging for ornamentation.
- Add inlays, carvings, or edge profiles with routers or wood carving tools.
- Line the interior with velvet, felt, or satin to cushion contents.
- Include features like dividers, mirrors, ring rolls, or necklace bars as needed.
Sanding and Finishing
Sand all surfaces smooth, moving up through finer grits like 100, 150, and 220. Sand with the wood grain and thoroughly wipe away dust.
Apply your choice of finish:
- Oil – Penetrating oils like tung, linseed, and Danish oil protect the wood with a low-luster sheen. Wipe on a thin coat, let soak for 15-30 minutes, then wipe off excess. Allow to cure fully between coats.
- Wax – Wax such as carnauba or beeswax provides a protective seal and lustrous patina. Smooth on with a cloth and buff off excess. Multiple coats can build up a deeper finish.
- Varnish – High-gloss varnish or polyurethane gives a thick plastic-like coating. Brush on 2-3 coats, sanding lightly between each.
- Paint/Stain – For colored finishes, apply wood conditioner before staining. Paint the box or use gel stains for bold colors. Seal paint and stain with a topcoat for protection.
Let the finish cure fully before use, around 7-10 days for oils and up to 30 days for varnish. Then fill your homemade wooden box and enjoy this handcrafted piece!
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the basic tools needed to make a wooden box?
You can make a wooden box with just a few essential tools:
- Table saw or circular saw for ripping lumber
- Miter saw for making cross cuts
- Jigsaw for curvy cuts if needed
- Router for cutting joinery like rabbets and dadoes
- Drill/driver for installing hardware
- Sander and sandpaper (100-220 grit range)
- Clamps like pipe or bar clamps
- Wood glue
- Tape measure, carpenter’s square, and basic safety gear
What size hardware hinges are needed?
Choose hinges to match the size and weight of your box:
- Small boxes – Opt for miniature hinges with a 1/2 to 3/4 inch length. Brass looks attractive for jewelry boxes.
- Medium boxes – Go with standard 1 to 1 1/2 inch butt hinges or small piano hinges. Nickel or steel finishes work well.
- Large heavy boxes – Use wide 2 to 3 inch piano hinges or heavy duty T-hinges to carry the weight. Matte black finishes are versatile.
Make sure the hinge length spans the width of your box sides or lid for proper support.
Can I line the inside of the box?
Yes, lining the inside creates an elegant finish. Some options include:
- Felt – Use adhesive-backed felt sheets in a coordinating color. Smooth out air bubbles as you press in place.
- Velvet – For luxurious lining, glue in velvet or velveteen with spray adhesive. Stretch seamlessly around corners.
- Satin – Satin creates luster and slip for jewelry storage. Adhere satin fabric panels with double-sided tape.
- Suede – With a fine nap, suede makes a cushy lining. Cut suede pieces slightly oversized and glue with fabric adhesive.
What kinds of wood joints provide the most strength?
- For ultimate box strength, opt for interlocking joint styles:
- Dovetail joints – Pins and tails fit tightly together when glued.
- Miter joints with splines – Splines reinforce miter corners.
- Finger joints – Like a tighter version of a box joint.
- Rabbet joints and dado joints also create ample box rigidity when glued and clamped securely. The wood grains join at perpendicular angles.
- Basic butt joints or miters may allow some flexibility over time. Add corner splines or metal joint braces for more support if needed.
How thick should the lumber be for small, medium, and large boxes?
- Small boxes like jewelry boxes can be made from 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick hardwood or plywood.
- Medium sized boxes measuring 1-2 feet wide generally use stock that’s 5/8 to 3/4 inches thick. This provides adequate strength.
- Larger blanket chests or trunks benefit from using 3/4 inch thick lumber or overlapping panels for the sides to resist bowing under heavy contents. Alternatively use very dense woods like oak or maple which resist warping at thinner widths.
What woods take stain well versus paint?
Some common box woods and how they take different finishes:
Stain:
- Pine – Stains evenly with wood conditioner
- Alder – Blonde tone that readily absorbs stain
- Maple – Requires pre-stain for even staining
Paint:
- Poplar – Neutral canvas that paints excellently
- Birch – Consistent texture for painted projects
- Cherry – Paint transforms the traditional reddish hue
Either:
- Oak – With porous grain but also strong coverage
- Walnut – Rich undertones that complement any finish
Do test stains and paints on wood scraps first to check for any uneven absorption issues. Apply conditioning products as needed for the smoothest results.
How do I get a glassy smooth finish?
To achieve a clear glossy finish:
- Start by sanding meticulously through fine grits up to 220 or 320 grit. Eliminate all scratches and dust.
- Before finishing, wipe the wood with a tack cloth. Apply a sealant like shellac to seal pores.
- Select a high-gloss varnish, polyurethane, or lacquer formulated for gloss. Oil-based products excel at smoothness.
- Brush on thin layers, sanding very lightly between coats to level drips. Allow thorough drying time between layers.
- Apply at least 3 coats for depth, but 5 or more may be needed for a piano-like finish. Take your time for best results.
- Let cure fully about 5-7 days after the final coat before polishing.
What mistakes should a beginner woodworker avoid?
Some common novice pitfalls:
- Rushing through cutting and assembly. Take it slow to avoid injuries and mistakes.
- Choosing warped stock with cracks or knots. Inspect wood carefully.
- Forgetting to account for wood movement. Allow room for expansion.
- Cutting pieces too short from inaccurate measuring. Double check sizes.
- Applying finishes too soon before adequate drying. Follow manufacturer directions.
- Skipping sanding steps for ultra smooth results. Progress through fine grits.
- Assembling with gaps or weak joints. Use clamps and glue properly applied.
- selecting hardware that’s underrated for the weight. Check weight capacities.
- Failing to pre-drill holes for screws. Prevent splits this way.
What are some specialty woods used for boxes?
Beyond the standard pine and oak, some exotic and decorative woods to consider:
- Purpleheart – Deep violet coloration
- Bubinga – Dramatic grains with red and brown tones
- Padauk – Bright crimson wood that mellows over time
- Zebrawood – Distinctive light/dark striping
- Bocote – Eye-catching zigzag patterns and golden highlights
- Bloodwood – Intense red color when polished
- Cocobolo – Swirling grain with shades of orange, red, and brown
Research the properties and workability of the wood. While beautiful, some exotics are quite dense and difficult to cut or finish.
Conclusion
Building your own custom wooden box is tremendously satisfying and an excellent woodworking project for all skill levels. With some basic tools and materials, you can construct jewelry boxes, blanket chests, storage cases, and display pieces to suit your needs. While it does take some patience and practice, the techniques of measuring, sawing, joining, and finishing boxes are quickly learned. The results are handcrafted wooden boxes that you’ll treasure for years to come and can even pass down to future generations. With an endless variety of sizes, woods, designs, and accents, you’re limited only by your own imagination. The next time you need some organized storage or a unique gift, consider creating your own keepsake quality wooden box.