Installing drywall is an essential step when finishing the interior walls of a home or building. Properly securing drywall to studs is crucial for creating a smooth, durable surface that will stand the test of time. While it may seem intimidating, screwing drywall to studs is actually a straightforward process with the right tools and techniques. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the entire process of how to screw drywall to studs correctly.
What You’ll Need
- Drywall sheets – 1/2 in. or 5/8 in. thick, depending on your project needs
- Drywall screws – 1 in., 1 1/4 in., or 1 5/8 in. coarse thread drywall screws recommended
- Power drill or screwdriver
- Tape measure
- Utility knife
- Drywall saw or jab saw
- 6 ft. Drywall T-square
- Pencil
- Stepladder
- Drywall lift (for ceilings or high walls)
- Eye protection and dust mask
Finding and Marking Stud Locations
Before you can start screwing drywall to the studs, you’ll need to locate exactly where the wood studs are behind your wall. Here’s how to find and mark the studs:
- Use a stud finder to locate studs. Run the stud finder vertically along the length of the wall to detect stud edges. Mark these locations lightly in pencil.
- Confirm stud edges with traditional methods. Knock along the wall and listen for solid knocking sounds that indicate a stud. Or probe the wall with a thin nail to find solid areas. Mark confirmed stud edges.
- Measure and mark stud center locations. Studs are usually placed 16 in. or 24 in. apart. Measure and mark the center of each stud bay.
- Double check measurements. Use your T-square and measure diagonally from corner to corner to verify stud spacing. Adjust center marks if needed.
Accurately locating and marking studs will make screwing the drywall much easier and prevent misaligned screws. Take your time with this step to avoid headaches later.
Cutting Drywall to Size
Before screwing it in place, you’ll need to cut your drywall sheets to fit your wall dimensions.
- Measure the wall and mark cutting lines. Account for any outlets, windows, or other obstructions.
- Use a drywall saw or utility knife to cut along the lines. Cut slow and score the paper multiple times before attempting to cut through.
- Snap off the drywall piece. Position the score line over the edge of a piece of scrap and bend the drywall to snap it cleanly.
- Smooth the edges. Lightly sand any rough paper edges to help prevent tears when lifting and installing the drywall.
Use a T-square to ensure you have square edges. This allows for accurate placement and seam alignment. Carefully cutting drywall prevents cracked corners and other fitting issues down the road.
Lifting and Securing the First Sheet
With your studs marked and drywall cut to size, it’s time to lift that first sheet into place:
- Lift and temporarily secure the drywall. Place the bottom edge on the floor, positioned at least 1/4 in. from the wall. Have a helper lift the top into place against the stud marks.
- Drive starter screws. Drill drywall screws into the center of the sheet at stud locations. Don’t fully tighten yet.
- Check alignment. Use a T-square to verify the edges are square with stud lines. Adjust as needed.
- Drive screws at top and bottom edges. Fully drive screws approximately 1 in. from sheet edges, 12 in. apart.
Starting with the first sheet properly positioned flat and square ensures the remaining drywall will align correctly. Take it slow and double check for accuracy.
Screwing Off the Floor
With the base row installed, now you can begin securely screwing each sheet to the studs from top to bottom:
- Lift and temporarily secure. Have a helper hold each sheet tight to the ceiling and lightly tack at stud marks.
- Screw off edges first. Fully drive screws about 1 in. in from edges at stud marks, 12 in. apart.
- Fill in interior screws. Systematically work horizontally across the sheet, driving screws every 12-16 in. at each stud mark.
- Screw bottom last. After verifying alignment, add screws along the bottom just off the floor last.
- Stagger seams. Overlap drywall sheets so vertical seams fall at least one stud bay off from seams on adjacent sheets.
Always maintaining board contact with the ceiling, screw off each row systematically from top to bottom. Staggering the seams and spacing screws 12 in. apart provides immense strength.
Technique Tips for Proper Drywall Screws
Driving screws incorrectly can pop drywall paper, strip screw heads, and leave improperly secured boards. Follow these pro tips:
- Set drill clutch to low speed. High torque can spin and strip screw heads.
- Push hard to break surface tension. Apply firm, even pressure until the screw head breaks the paper surface.
- Ease off the pressure. Once through the surface, let the screw do the work without forcing it.
- Seat screws just below surface. Recessed screw heads are easier to conceal than sticking out.
- Avoid over-tightening. Snug is fine, as too tight can damage paper or dimple the drywall.
The right screw driving technique ensures flush screws with minimal paper damage for an optimal end result. Be patient and let the drill do the work once through the drywall surface.
Screwing Drywall to Studs on Ceilings
Thick, heavy drywall sheets used for ceilings require some special considerations:
- Use long screws. 1 5/8 in. drywall screws provide plenty of reach for 1/2 in. ceiling sheets.
- Rent or enlist help. Use a drywall lift or an extra pair of hands to hoist sheets overhead.
- Start from the middle. Drive starter screws in the middle of the ceiling first before working outward.
- Screw rows 12 in. apart. Closer screw spacing provides additional reinforcement for gravity.
- Stagger ceiling seams. Offset seams from wall seams for maximum strength at the corners.
With the extra weight involved, safe lifting and plenty of screws are critical to creating a secure ceiling that won’t sag over time. Take all precautions to avoid injuries or accidents working overhead.
Troubleshooting Common Drywall Screwing Mistakes
Despite your best efforts, you may encounter some hiccups and headaches when screwing off drywall. Here are some common mistakes and fixes:
Problem: Buckled or wavy drywall surface.
Solution: Ensure framing is properly aligned and crowning is facing out on boards. Remove protruding screws and re-drive.
Problem: Popped drywall surface around screws.
Solution: Sharpener drill bit, ease off pressure when driving, and ensure clutch isn’t set too high.
Problem: Drywall edges cracking when handling.
Solution: Ensure paper edges are smoothed, lift sheets carefully, and carry vertically when moving.
Problem: Studs missed or screws stripping out.
Solution: Use stud finder and probing method to re-confirm locations. Predrill pilot holes for stripping screws.
With careful drywall handling and proper screw driving technique, your results should be smooth and secure. But if issues arise, these tips can get you back on track.
Finishing Drywall Screwed to Studs
Once all your drywall sheets are properly screwed off, there are a few finishing steps before you can paint or texture:
- Tape and mud seams. Use fiberglass mesh tape and joint compound to create a seamless surface between sheets.
- Spread thin coats. Build up layers for perfectly smooth seams, avoiding pockets and cracks.
- Sand between coats. Lightly sand each coat of joint compound before applying the next.
- Texture or prime before painting. Match existing wall texture. Or apply drywall primer for the ideal painting surface.
Take the time to properly tape, mud, and finish for flawless looking results. Your diligent drywall screwing efforts will pay off when it’s all completed.
FAQs About Screwing Drywall to Studs
Still have some questions about properly driving drywall screws? Here are answers to some of the most common questions:
What is the proper screw spacing when screwing off drywall?
For walls, screws should be spaced 12 inches apart across studs and along top and bottom plates. For ceilings, reduce spacing to 8-12 inches apart due to the weight of the drywall.
What size drywall screws should be used?
For standard 1/2 inch drywall, 1 inch screws are sufficient. For thicker 5/8 inch ceiling boards, use 1 1/4 or 1 5/8 inch drywall screws. Longer screws provide more holding power.
Is it okay to use an impact driver for drywall screws?
It’s not recommended as impact drivers can easily damage drywall paper and strip screw heads. Use a variable speed drill on the lower clutch settings instead.
Do you have to pre-drill for drywall screws?
Pre-drilling is only necessary if screws are stripping out when driving them in. Use a 3/32 inch bit to pre-drill if this occurs. Take care not to drive screws too deep.
Should drywall screws be countersunk?
Yes, drywall screws should sit just below the surface of the drywall. The tapered end helps guide screws to the proper depth. Avoid leaving screw heads protruding.
What is the proper way to lift and carry drywall sheets?
Carefully lift sheets horizontally, keeping them vertical when carrying. Have another person support the other end. Avoid bending or creasing drywall when handling.
Can you screw drywall directly to concrete?
No, concrete provides no holding power for drywall screws. You must first attach wood or metal studs to the concrete before screwing off the drywall.
How much clearance should drywall be off the floor?
Leave a 1/4 to 3/8 inch gap between the bottom drywall edge and the floor. Base trim will hide the gap. Proper clearance prevents wicking up moisture.
Conclusion
Installing drywall is one of the most important steps when finishing interior walls and ceilings. Learning how to properly screw drywall to studs takes some practice, but with the right techniques and tools, you can achieve professional-looking results. Be sure to take the time to carefully measure and mark stud bays, cut drywall with clean, square edges, and systematically screw off sheets using proper screw spacing and driving methods. Follow these best practices for smooth, securely fastened drywall that will look great once finished and painted. With some perseverance and attention to detail, you can become a pro at securely screwing drywall to studs.