How to Use a Miter Saw - Kitchen Cabinets

A miter saw is an essential power tool for many woodworking projects. With the ability to make accurate, angled cuts, a miter saw enables you to easily cut trim, molding, picture frames, and other decorative elements that require precise angles. While miter saws may seem intimidating at first, they are relatively easy to use with some basic guidance. In this article, we will provide a step-by-step overview of how to properly use a miter saw to achieve clean, accurate cuts.

Selecting the Right Blade

The first step in using a miter saw is selecting the proper blade. Most miter saws come with a crosscutting blade installed, but you may need to change or sharpen it depending on your project.

For cutting wood, a sharp carbide-tipped blade designed for crosscutting is best. An 80-tooth blade will make smooth, splinter-free cuts in trim and molding.
For cutting metal, use a specialty blade designed for non-ferrous metal. Do not try to cut metal with a standard woodcutting blade.
For cutting tile or masonry, you’ll need a diamond-grit abrasive blade.

Make sure the blade you select is the correct size – typically 10 or 12 inches – to match your miter saw. Refer to the saw’s manual for recommended blades. Install the blade securely, using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Adjusting the Blade Angle

One of the key advantages of a miter saw over a circular saw is the ability to adjust the blade angle to make angled or beveled cuts. Here’s how to change the blade angle on a miter saw:

To adjust the miter angle (side-to-side swivel of the blade), loosen the miter lock knob, rotate the saw to your desired angle, and tighten the lock knob to secure the setting. Angles are often marked on a miter scale.
For bevel cuts (tilting the blade up), loosen the bevel lock and tilt the saw to your preferred angle based on the bevel scale. Then tighten the lock.
Compound cuts combine both miter and bevel angles. Adjust both the miter and the bevel to achieve the precise cutting angle needed.

Make small test cuts on scrap wood when adjusting angles to ensure accuracy. Referencing a protractor can also help dial in exact angles.

Clamping the Workpiece

Properly securing your workpiece with clamps before making a cut is crucial for safety and accuracy. Here are some tips for getting a good workpiece clamp:

Use bar clamps, C-clamps, bench dogs, a vise, or any method to firmly secure the workpiece to the saw table. This prevents the wood from shifting during the cut.
Place clamps as close to the cut line as possible while still allowing room for the blade to fully pass through the workpiece.
Use rubber shims or wood cauls when clamping to prevent marring or indentations in the workpiece.
If cutting long boards, provide support on the offcut end so the piece doesn’t twist or drop when cut.
Ensure the workpiece sits flat against the table. Add shims if needed to prevent rocking.

Taking the time to properly clamp your workpiece keeps hands safely away from the blade while also delivering accurate cuts.

Aligning the Cut Line

Aligning the intended cut line up with the blade is imperative for precision with a miter saw. Follow these guidelines for proper cut line alignment:

When cutting across the workpiece, align your cut mark precisely with the blade. You can sight down from above if needed.
For bevel, miter, or compound cuts, align the intersecting cut lines with the edges of the blade.
Provide support to the workpiece near the cutoff point so it doesn’t dip once cut.
Use a square or protractor to ensure your angles are accurately aligned with the blade.
Take light, preliminary passes to create a kerf, then make the full cut once aligned.
Use a laser guide if equipped on your saw to precisely align with the cut line.

Taking the extra time to dial in perfect alignment results in professional-quality cuts that require little to no extra sanding or work.

Securing Material During Cut

While making the actual cut with a miter saw, it’s vital to maintain control of the workpiece using one hand while operating the saw with the other. Here are some pointers:

Keep one hand firmly pressing the material flat against the fence or table while cutting. Do not remove this hand pressure until the blade fully clears the material to prevent kickback or shifting.
Let the blade guard return fully before releasing the workpiece.
If the material begins to twist, bind, or splinter, stop the cut immediately and reposition before starting again.
Long material will need an additional support stand for the offcut end. Keep pressure down on this support during the cut.
Use push sticks or jigs for cutting small material safely. Never cross your hands over the blade!

Carefully controlling the workpiece while cutting avoids dangerous kickbacks while giving clean, accurate cut results.

Making Repeated Cuts

One of the advantages of using a miter saw is the ability to make multiple duplicates of the same cut precisely and efficiently. Here are some tips:

Use stop blocks secured to the fence or saw table to ensure repeated cuts are exactly the same length. Position the stop block so the workpiece contacts it at the desired cut length.
Mark cut lines on the workpieces with a pencil for easy alignment with the blade each time.
Keep your hands in the same position on each workpiece to maintain control.
Reset the saw blade back to 0° after angled cuts before starting repeated 90° cuts.
Clamp down a stop block to the saw table at the offcut end to quickly position each workpiece identically.
Write down the angle measurements for specialty cuts to easily reset for multiple workpieces.

With good alignment techniques, you can churn out multiple precision cuts in minutes.

Cutting Trim or Molding

Trim and molding require mitered end cuts to properly frame walls, windows, doors, etc. Follow these tips for the best results:

Always miter the two adjoining pieces to the proper angle so they fit together seamlessly. Cutting both ends of a single piece at an angle creates issues.
Use a miter box, protractor, or digital angle finder to determine the correct angles for the job.
Make sure material is properly secured vertically when cutting to avoid splintering on the back side.
Move slowly through denser exotic woods to prevent bogging down or blade burning.
Leave the factory edge intact where possible so finished edges adjoin.
Make test cuts on scrap first and check the fit before cutting all pieces to length.

With attention to grain direction and angles, trim and molding requires only minimal sanding before finishing and installing.

Cutting Dadoes

While a miter saw primarily makes crosscuts across wood, it’s also possible to use it for stopped dado grooves with a special technique:

Mark the length of the dado cut on the workpiece. Clamp a straightedge guide strip to the saw table aligned with the blade.
Lower the blade to your desired dado depth. Make a series of cuts moving over the length of the dado, using the guide strip for consistency.
Clear out the waste slices with a chisel, then fine tune the groove with a router or file.
Always use stop blocks to prevent running dado cuts to the end of the workpiece.

With care, a miter saw can achieve dado and rabbet grooves for shelving, joinery, and other applications.

Cutting Corners and Coves

Looking to make fancier cuts like arched moldings, rounded corners, or decorative corbels? It’s possible with care and the right accessories:

A miter saw miter gauge enables gently curved cuts along any radial line by swiveling the wood against a rotating channel.
Temporary clamp-on miter saw fences let you align the wood at various angles for unique cove cuts.
Blade curve profiles like crown molding stops create the bevel needed for proper arched trim installation.
Plunge cuts allow you to safely lower the spinning blade into the workpiece without tearout.
Make relief cuts and cutouts prior to curved cuts to allow adequate blade clearance.

With creative setups and techniques, the miter saw can achieve much more than simple straight mitered corners. Expand your decorative options with curved and coved projects.

Cutting Long Boards

Miter saw tables are typically short in length, which makes it challenging to cut long boards. However, there are methods to work around this limitation:

Use sawhorses or a roller stand to support the far end of long boards, keeping them level and preventing offcut droop.
Perform repeated shallow passes to gradually cut through dense hardwoods without bogging down the saw.
Cut halfway through the board thickness from one side, flip it over, and complete the crosscut from the other side.
Look for sliding miter saws capable of pulling long boards back through the cut rather than having to feed boards far forward.
Build shop-made extended fences and outfeed supports to accommodate extra-long stock on a standard miter saw.

With some clever workaround strategies, nearly any length of dimensional lumber can be managed on a miter saw for big projects.

Cutting Crown Molding

Crown molding requires compound miter cuts to install properly and getting these angles right can be tricky. Try these crown molding cutting tips on your miter saw:

Tilt the miter saw blade to 33-38 degrees bevel to match the back angle of the molding profile.
Install the molding upside-down in the miter saw to cut bottom ends, right-side up for top ends.
Consult crown molding miter angle charts to set the miter for each needed corner angle. Test on scrap pieces first.
Use stop molding blocks to limit how far moldings insert into the saw for consistent length cuts.
Apply painter’s tape along the front fence face for a smoother cut and to prevent scratches.
Make minor sanding touch ups, then prime, paint, or finish prior to installation for best visual results.

With precision setup and care, a miter saw can deliver picture-frame worthy joints in intricate crown moldings.

Cutting Baseboard Molding

Similar techniques apply when cutting standard baseboard molding on a miter saw, but the angles involved are simpler:

The blade bevel can remain at 0°. Vertical base moldings require only miter cuts.
Lay the concave back of the base trim against the saw fence when cutting to support the high side.
Consult a miter angle chart for the most common inside and outside corner joints, usually 31.6 or 45 degrees.
Use a miter gauge accessory if available for greater angle precision on the saw table.
Make double 45-degree miter cuts at transitions between rooms or flooring products.
Tack or tape mating ends together so joints close up tight when reassembling for install.

With the right layout planning and measurements, perfect miter joints can make baseboard installations look seamless.

Cutting Cove Molding

Cove molding presents some challenges with undercut profiles that can’t lie flat on a miter saw. However, you can still make accurate cuts with attention to these details:

Support the sides of the cove molding with tapered shims or blocks, keeping the desired cutting location clear.
Angle the saw bevel to match the back angle (typically 38°) so the blade aligns with the profile cut.
Take light passes raising the blade gently into the cove bottom to avoid chip-out or tearing.
Use clamps and zero-clearance inserts to stabilize the workpiece for cleaner cuts.
Label mating ends during multi-piece cuts to retain proper orientation.

Though tricky, creating tight miter joints in cove moldings is achievable with careful positioning and blade control. Test on scrap first.

Cutting Shelving

Miter saws quickly cut shelving and other furniture parts to exact lengths with squared ends:

Mark each shelf cut length clearly on multiple sides to avoid mix-ups.
Set the blade to a precise 90° angle and double check for accuracy before starting.
Use stops or gauges to set consistent length cuts when working in batches.
Apply painter’s tape over the cut line to prevent tear-out on plywood or veneers.
Feed the wood slowly to avoid chipping on the bottom side of shelving cuts.
Lightly sand cut ends to remove splinters before installing shelves into cabinetry.

A quality miter saw achieves cleaner cross cuts and easier sizing than frustrating circular saw and handsaw attempts at shelving and furniture parts.

Cutting Picture Frames

One of the most tedious miter saw operations is cutting precision joins for picture frames and mirror frames:

Use a miter gauge for the saw to carefully align angles within fractions of a degree.
Cut the frame top/bottom pieces slightly longer to account for variances in the side cuts.
Label mating pieces to ensure proper grain pattern matching during assembly.
Glue joints, then reinforce with biscuits or splines for durability over time.
Sand corners lightly with fine grit sandpaper to eliminate slight gaps before finish application.

The precision of a miter saw is invaluable when assembling frames that require virtually seamless mitered corner joints for an invisible profile.

Common Miter Saw Technique Mistakes

While a miter saw is one of the safest and easiest saws to operate, issues can still crop up without proper technique:

Forgetting to tighten angle adjustment locks before cutting leads to unwanted angled cuts.
Cutting with incorrect or dull blades results in rough, splintered edges. Ensure you have the right clean, sharp blade installed.
Not securing the workpiece causes binding and potential kickback that ruins cuts or damages the saw. Always clamp down your workpiece.
Misaligned cuts appear sloppy and require extra re-work. Carefully lining up cut lines avoids this.
Forcing the blade too quickly overheats saw motors and melts workpieces. Cut at an even, moderate feed rate.
No safety gear exposes operators to sawdust and flying debris. Always wear eye and ear protection!

Stay attentive to avoid these common technique mistakes for smooth operation and professional-quality cutting results.

Miter Saw Maintenance

Performing regular maintenance and cleaning keeps a miter saw in peak shape for years of use:

Blow or brush sawdust off the saw periodically to prevent buildup. Pay extra attention around the bevel and miter pivots.
Wipe down sliding rails often with a dry cloth. Apply paste wax or silicone spray for smooth gliding motion.
Check the blade frequently for chips, cracks, or dull teeth. Sharpen or replace damaged blades.
Lubricate miter and bevel gear teeth periodically with powdered graphite or light oil according to the manual.
Clear accumulated debris from under the saw’s base and off the motor housing to prevent overheating.
Inspect power cords and plugs and have damaged wiring repaired by a qualified electrician before use.

Proper care promotes safety, cutting accuracy, and longevity for any miter saw. Refer to the owner’s manual for model-specific maintenance procedures.

Miter Saw Safety Tips

Miter saws contain fast spinning blades that demand caution. Keep these safety tips in mind:

Always wear eye protection to guard against sawdust and debris. Hearing protection is also recommended.
Keep hands well clear of the blade, using clamps and handles to secure the workpiece. Avoid awkward hand positioning.
Wait for the blade to come to a complete stop before adjusting the workpiece to avoid contact.
Support long or unstable workpieces to prevent movement and binding during cuts.
Double check for misaligned workpieces or loose angle settings before activating the saw.
Don’t force cuts in heavy material or hardwoods. Reduce feed rate to avoid bogging.
Ensure your work area is free of clutter, cords, and slip hazards before operating the saw.
Unplug the saw when inspecting, changing blades, or conducting any maintenance.

Stay alert and use common sense caution when using miter saws for enjoyable, accident-free operation.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are some different types of miter saws?

The most common types are:

Standard miter saws with basic miter and bevel adjustments for angular cuts. May have 10 or 12 inch blades.
Sliding miter saws capable of deeper crosscuts thanks to rails that extend the blade forward and backward.
Compound miter saws that allow both bevel and miter adjustments for complex angled and chamfered cuts.
Dual compound miter saws with independent control over both bevel and miter direction for added cut versatility.
Cordless miter saws using lithium-ion batteries to allow for convenient portable use without dealing with a cord.

What safety gear should be used with a miter saw?

At minimum, always use eye protection and ear protection when operating a miter saw. Eye shields, safety glasses, or goggles protect eyes from flying sawdust and debris. Earmuffs or earplugs prevent cumulative hearing damage from prolonged miter saw usage. Dust masks are also popular to avoid inhaling fine particulate matter. Sturdy, slip-resistant shoes and avoiding loose clothing are also smart precautions around power saws.

What is the benefit of a laser guide on a miter saw?

A laser cutting guide projects a beam of light exactly aligned with the path of the saw blade. This provides a clear visual indicator when positioning and aligning your workpiece for the upcoming cut. Laser guides improve cutting accuracy and allow you to preview the blade path before making a cut. Most