A table saw is an essential woodworking tool for ripping lumber into evenly sized pieces. With the right techniques and setup, you can achieve clean, straight rips with a table saw every time. We will walk through the key steps for successfully ripping boards using a table saw, from choosing your lumber to making the final cut. Follow these tips and you’ll be ripping wood like a pro in no time.
Selecting the Right Lumber
The starting point for any good rip cut is choosing quality lumber. Here are some things to look for when selecting boards for ripping:
- Straightness – Avoid twisted, bowed or crooked boards. Straight boards will feed through the saw more evenly and result in straight cuts.
- Grain orientation – For ripping, the grain should run parallel to the longest edge of the board. This prevents tear-out as the wood fibers are cut.
- Moisture content – Wood should be properly dried and have a moisture content around 6-8% for ripping. Wet wood can warp and bind on the saw.
- Dimensions – Good proportions for ripping are 2-3 times longer than wide. Very short or very narrow boards are hard to feed safely.
- Surface defects – Inspect for cupping, warping, knots and other defects before ripping. These can affect the quality of cuts.
Choosing straight, flat-sawn boards with straight grain, proper moisture content, and a good size will set you up for success. Avoid lumber with major defects for the cleanest cuts.
Setting Up Your Table Saw
Before you start ripping, your table saw needs to be properly set up:
Blade Selection
- Use a sharp, 10-15 tooth carbide tipped blade designed for ripping. More teeth create finer cuts but slow the feed rate.
- Hollow ground or flat-top grinder blade profiles both work for ripping. Avoid highly angled blades better suited for cross-cutting.
- Ensure the blade is installed correctly and tilted to a 0° angle relative to the table.
Fence Positioning
- Position the rip fence to be parallel with the saw blade. Use a combination square to check it is exactly 90° to the table.
- Lock down the fence tightly once positioned. Even a small amount of movement during the cut can ruin the straightness.
- Open up the fence to at least 3” wider than your desired rip width to allow clearance on the off-cut side.
Workpiece Support
- Use the miter gauge to support the workpiece and feed it through perpendicular to the blade. Slide the miter gauge into the T-slot in the table.
- Position the miter gauge just to the left side of the blade, providing firm support as you make the cut but avoiding binding.
- Make sure the miter gauge is tightened down and won’t shift during the rip.
With a straight, sharp, ripping blade, properly positioned fence, and miter gauge in place, you’re ready to start ripping.
Ripping Techniques for Straight Cuts
When ripping boards on a table saw, focus on these techniques for straight, accurate, and safe cuts:
Secure the Workpiece
- Use push blocks, push sticks, featherboards and other safety accessories when ripping, especially for narrower boards. This keeps hands clear of the blade.
- Position the workpiece firmly against the table and miter gauge as you feed it into the blade. Any twisting or misalignment will cause off-cuts.
Control the Feed Rate
- Feed the workpiece perpendicularly into the blade at a steady, moderate pace. Rushing can lead to binding and kickback.
- Let the blade do the cutting. Don’t force the wood through faster than the saw can handle.
- If you hear the motor slow down, ease up on the feed rate. Forcing the workpiece will overload the saw.
Use Even Downward Pressure
- Press straight down as you make the cut to keep the workpiece flat on the table. Lifting up slightly or pushing off-angle can ruin the straightness.
- Avoid tilting the workpiece sideways or causing any pivoting motion. This can bind against the rip fence and lead to kickback.
- Maintain firm pressure directly over the blade line as it cuts into the wood.
Cut to Finish
- Complete the cut in one smooth pass all the way through the board for the cleanest, most accurate rip cut.
- Pulling the workpiece back out mid-cut leaves marks and a rougher edge.
With practice and patience, you’ll be able to rip even the trickiest boards into perfectly straight planks using these techniques. Proper form and control are the keys to success.
Setting the Rip Fence Precisely
A perfectly straight rip cut hinges on accurately setting the rip fence position. Here are some tips:
- To avoid having to measure and reposition over and over, set up a stop block on the fence as a quick reference point for common rip widths.
- For very precise cuts, take a test pass on scrap wood first and check for any offset using a tape measure. Adjust the fence slightly if needed before ripping your final workpiece.
- For ripping rough lumber, account for the loss of material from jointing and planing one face smooth beforehand. Position the fence accordingly to end up with your desired final width.
- When ripping multiple workpieces to the same dimensions, double check the fence position each time before making the cut. Even small shifts can throw off accuracy.
- For extremely fine-tuned rips under 1/8”, use a precision rip gauge accessory that allows smaller adjustments beyond the fence scale.
Setting the fence position perfectly takes patience, practice, and careful measurement, but it ensures your ripped boards come out exactly the width you intend. Take the time to dial it in right.
Choosing the Right Blade Depth
Properly setting the blade height is also key for high quality ripping:
- Set the blade height to about 1/8” higher than the thickness of the workpiece. This avoids making the workpiece unstable but provides just enough clearance.
- Listen for the sound of cutting to decrease as the blade exits the bottom of the workpiece. This signals the ideal height has been reached.
- When ripping multiple workpieces to the same dimensions, cut a sample piece first and use that to set the blade height for the rest.
- Only raise the blade as high as needed for each workpiece to minimize exposure to the dangerous cutting edge.
- Adjustments of even 1/16” can significantly affect cutting stability and precision during the rip.
With some test cuts and fine tuning, you can zero in on the optimal blade height for ripping any workpiece cleanly and accurately.
Adding a Rip Fence Extension
When ripping longer boards, the standard fence may not provide enough support alongside the workpiece. A simple solution is adding a DIY wooden extension:
- Use a straight, jointed 1×3 or 1×4 board slightly longer than the distance from saw blade to fence.
- Clamp the board extension securely onto the existing fence using C-clamps, aligning the face of the board with the fence edge.
- Position the extension on the far side of the blade to provide support as the workpiece passes through. Leave a 1/8” gap between the board and blade for clearance.
- Run a test piece through to ensure the extension provides sufficient support without impeding the cut or causing binding.
- For thin boards requiring push sticks during the rip, attach a wooden platform to the extension to bear down on, keeping the push stick parallel and low.
Adding this simple auxiliary fence improves stability when ripping long boards and prevents the off-cut piece from falling and binding against the blade.
Cutting Dados and Rabbets
In addition to straight ripping, table saws can also be used to cut dado and rabbet joints:
Dados
- Dados are centered, notched channels cut across the grain to receive shelves, dividers, or other inserts perpendicularly.
- Wider dados require multiple passes, incrementally raising the blade between each pass. Mark the final depth on your workpiece and stop short about 1/8” to prevent going too far.
- Use a dado stacking blade set or standard blade with spacers for clean, flat-bottomed dado cuts.
Rabbets
- Rabbets are L-shaped channels cut along the edge of a workpiece, with the grain running parallel.
- Use the standard saw blade with the height set to the target rabbet depth. Position the fence offset to expose only the portion of the blade needed for the rabbet width.
- Make multiple incremental passes to achieve wider rabbets, moving the fence over after each pass.
- Climb cut into the workpiece edge when making rabbets to prevent tear-out on the edge.
With the right accessories and setup, rabbets, dados, and other woodworking joints can be added right on your table saw.
Avoiding Common Problems
Here are some potential mistakes to be aware of when ripping on a table saw:
- Excessive tear-out – Using a dull blade or cutting against the grain direction leads to splintering on the cut edge. Use a sharp blade and proper workpiece orientation. Slow the feed rate if needed.
- Burn marks – Friction buildup causes dark burn marks along the cut. Ensure the blade height doesn’t exceed the workpiece thickness by more than 1/8” and use a ripping blade.
- Wavy cuts – This happens when the workpiece shifts during the cut. Make sure to press straight down and support both sides of the workpiece right up to the blade.
- Kickback – Binding between the blade and fence/workpiece can violently throw the board back toward you. Maintain steady feed pressure in line with the blade and keep hands/body out of the path of potential kickback.
- Cut tapering – If one side of the cut tapers wider, the fence is likely misaligned. Verify it is exactly parallel to the blade using a combo square.
Stay alert for these signs of trouble and make adjustments to your setup, feed rate, or workpiece orientation to improve the rip quality. With practice, clean straight rip cuts become second nature.
Maintaining Your Table Saw
Keep your table saw in proper working order with regular maintenance:
- Clean the table surface – Remove any pitch buildup using a commercial gum and resin remover product so workpieces glide smoothly.
- Check blade sharpness – Use a gauging tool to inspect for dull, chipped or damaged blade teeth. Sharpen or replace worn blades for best performance.
- Adjust the fence – Over time, the fence can fall out of parallel with the blade. Recheck alignment periodically and tweak the adjustment as needed.
- Lubricate components – Use paste wax on the table and apply lubricating oil to raise/tilt mechanisms and the arbor to prevent rust and maintain smooth operation.
- Empty dust collection – Routinely empty built-up sawdust from enclosed base cabinets and vacuum debris under the table to reduce risk of ignition.
- Inspect power cord – Check the cord and plug for any worn insulation or exposed wires. Damaged cords present a shock hazard.
With regular upkeep and adjustments, your table saw will provide years of smooth, precise ripping capability. Be diligent about safety checks and maintenance.
Safety Tips
Operating a table saw safely should always be the top priority:
- Wear eye and hearing protection when ripping. Use a respirator if making large quantity cuts.
- Avoid wearing loose clothing, jewelry or gloves which could get caught in moving parts. Tie back long hair.
- Keep your work area free of clutter and well lit. Tripping hazards and shadows can lead to accidents.
- Use push sticks, featherboards, and other safety accessories whenever possible to keep hands away from the spinning blade.
- If ripping very small workpieces, use specially designed push blocks and hold-down jigs to maintain control and minimize kickback risk.
- Give the spinning saw blade your complete focus and attention while cutting. Avoid distractions.
- Turn off the saw and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before adjusting the fence or lumber position mid-cut.
- Support large panels on infeed and outfeed stands during ripping to prevent the weight from tipping the saw table.
- Follow all manufacturer safety recommendations and never remove blade guards or other safety equipment.
Staying alert and using proper precautions will help you avoid the most common table saw accidents. Never let familiarity allow you to become complacent when using dangerous equipment.
FAQ
What size of boards can be ripped on a table saw?
Most table saws can rip boards up to 3-4” thick and 30-50” wide. Length is limited only by support on the infeed and outfeed sides. Very thin or narrow boards under 3” are difficult to control and pose added kickback risk.
Should the good face be up or down when ripping?
For ripping, the good face should be placed down against the saw table so the bottom edge of the workpiece runs against the fence. This makes it easier to maintain a straight cut on the length being ripped.
How much space should be between the fence and blade when ripping?
A good rule of thumb is to allow 1/8” clearance between the spinning blade and the fence. This prevents binding while still supporting the workpiece. The board should slide freely with the small gap.
What causes kickback when ripping on a table saw?
Kickback happens when the spinning blade grabs the rear of the workpiece and violently throws it back toward the operator. Common causes are not keeping the workpiece flat, improperly aligned fences, dull blades, or feeding the work too quickly.
Should you use a cross cut blade for ripping?
No, a crosscut blade with its higher tooth count and steep bevel angle is optimized for cutting across the grain only. Always use a dedicated ripping blade for ripping operations. The special tooth geometry helps prevent tear-out.
How can you stop thin strips from falling into the saw blade slot when ripping?
Small off-cut strips can drop into the narrow blade slot, damaging blades and posing a safety risk. Using a riving knife, splitter, or simply positioning a wood filler block between the blade and fence can prevent thin cut-offs from falling through.
Conclusion
With the right preparation, setup, and cutting techniques, table saws allow for fast, accurate ripping of boards into perfectly straight, splinter-free planks. Follow the recommendations in this guide to successfully rip wood of any size into the exact dimensions you need for your next woodworking project. Just remember to always make safety the top priority by using all recommended guards and jigs and avoiding complacency even after years of gaining experience. Master the simple but important fundamentals covered here and you’ll be ripping lumber like an expert carpenter in no time.